
^^ THE t 



T O I R I S T 



184 1. 



4'"#-^'f-#-^^4^4:"^-f-'M''f-^ ■; --f ■+-4"^*-*H*-*-4- 



\i 



a' 



J 




Glass. 



J%5 ■ 



Book l^2zA^ 



I 



^ 



i 

it 



m^ ' 



'Vi3,c. 



.^._ 



' THE 

I 

I 

T O U^jl I S T, 

OR 

^ POCKET MANUAL 

FOR 

TRAVELLERS 

ON 

THE HUDSON RIVER, THE W^ESTERN AND NORTHERN 
CANALS AND RAILROADS ; 

THE 

STAGE ROUTES TO NIAGARA FALLS; 

AND DOWN 

LAKE ONTARIO AND THE ST. LAWRENCE TO MONTREAL 
AND QUEBEC. 

COMPRISING ALSO 

THE ROUTES TO LEBANON, BALLSTON, AND SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

WITH MANY NEW AND INTERESTING DETAILS. 

NCntij HUition. 
NEW-YORK: 

HARPER^ BROTHERS, 82 CLIFF- STREET. 
18 4 1. 






Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1838, by 

Harper 6f Brothers, 
in the Clerk's Office of the Southern District of New-York. 



'7 



PREFACE. 



The sale of this little book in former seasons 
was so flattering to the publishers, that they are 
induced to undertake a ninth edition, adapted to 
the present season. So great and continual are 
the changes going on in the modes of travelling, 
in the routes themselves, and in the places to 
which tourists resort, that it is absolutely neces- 
sary to have numerous alterations made from year 
to year in those works which are intended as 
guides and companions for the traveller. 

To be brief, and yet sufficiently explicit; to 
furnish statistical information without being te- 
dious ; and, in short, to give much in little on every 
subject that presents itself to the intelligent tourist, 
is the design of the present work. 

Tables of distances, routes, population, steam- 
boat lines, principal hotels, will be found in their 
appropriate pjaces. 

June, 1841. 



ROUTE FROM PHILADELPHIA TO 
NEW-YORK. 



There are several routes from Philadelphia to New- York. 
The railroad from Philadelphia to Trenton is preferred by 
-some ; the night line by the Camden and Amboy railroad ; 
and by the steamboat up the Delaware to Bordentown, and 
thence by the railroad to Amboy, thence by water to New- 
York. As the hotels all contain printed cards giving minute 
directions, it is unnecessary to repeat them here. The pas- 
sage up the Delaware is the most agreeable of these routes. 

After starting, the shiphouse in the Navy-yard will be seen 
opposite. A number of shipyards and three or four glass- 
houses will be noticed ; also a shot-tower, and a number of 
tall spires, which appear conspicuous among the great mass 
of buildings. The boat moves on in the " even tenoiu: of her 
way," and the traveller soon finds himself at 

Burlington, 18 miles from Philadelpliia, a city and port 
of entry, v/hich, like most of the places along the Delaware, 
fills a very interesting page in the history of the Revolution. 
It is a very handsome town, beautifully located on an inclined 
plane, and many of the buildings display much taste. Popu- 
lation in 1830, 2670 ; now about 3500.* 

Bristol, nearly opposite, presents to view a number of 
handsome buildings, with extensive and beautiful gardens at- 
tached. Population in 1830, 1262. After proceeding 10 
miles farther, the boat arrives at 

Bordentown, a handsome village, situated on an elevated 
bank. Here the passengers take cars on the Camden and 
Amboy Railroad, and, after proceeding a short distance, the 
seat and residence of the Ex-king of Spain, Joseph Bonaparte, 
who now styles himself Count Survilliers, and is residing in 
England, is seen on the left. A fire which took place some 
years since at this place destroyed the finest of his buildings. 
The railroad passes tlirough Sandhills, 4 miles distant from 
Bordentown, to Centreville 5 miles, to Rocky Brook 4 miles, 

* The United States census of 1840 not having been fully made up, we 
are not able to publish the different population of towns with great 
accuracy. 



8 PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

to West's 8 miles, to Spotswood 4 miles, to South Amboy 9 
miles. (See Railroads.) 

South Amboy is the terminating point of the railroad, 
which is 35 miles in length. Here the steamboat lies at the 
wharf in readiness to proceed down the Raritan River ; and 
as soon as the passengers can be transferred from the cars, 
she gets under way and proceeds to 

Perth Amboy, which is directly opposite across the river, 
and stands on a point at the junction of Raritan River and Ar- 
thur Kills. There is little here to attract notice. Some ship* 
ping generally lies at the wharves, but the place does not wear 
a very business-like aspect. 

Elizabethtown Point, within 15 miles of New- York, is 
the next stopping-place. The village of Elizabethtown is two 
miles inland. It was settled by people from Connecticut. 
Population 3445. 

At the mouth of the Kills is seen the beautiful village of 
New-Brighton, which, though it has for the present proved 
unequal to the expectations of its projectors, must, on the re- 
vival of business, become a great place of resort, and amply 
repay the cost of expenditure. 

The boat now enters the broad, beautiful bay of New- York, 
and Fort Lafayette is seen between Long and Staten Islands, 
in the passage to the sea called " The Narrows." ■ On the 
right is seen Castle Williams and Governor's Island, on the 
left are Ellis's and Bedlow's Islands, which are both fortified, 
and in front an immense, almost innumerable quantity of 
shipping lying at the wharves, with an extended background 
of lofty buildings, among which the towering spires of the nu- 
merous churches scattered about the city appear very conspic- 
uously. 

New-York is the largest and most populous city in the 
United States, and has an unrivalled location as a commercial 
city, at the junction of the East and Hudson rivers, on an isl- 
and of 15 miles in length by 1^ in width. It is now built 
nearly in a triangular shape, and extends about 3 miles on 
each river. The principal portion of shipping-business is 
transacted on the eastern side of the city, as that part of the 
harbour is best protected from prevailing storms. The East 
River, opposite the city, is about half a mile wide, and the 
North River something more than a mile. The principal 
Streets run north and south, and are crossed at right angles 



NEW-YORK. y 

by streets butting on each river. Broadway, a handsomely- 
built avenue, about 3 miles in length and 80 feet in width, is 
the fashionable promenade of the city, and is generally crowded 
in pleasant weather with every description of persons, and na- 
tives of almost every chme. 

The principal places of amusement are the Park, Bowery, 
National, Franklin, and Olympic Theatres ; Peale's and the 
American Museums, and several gardens, of which Nihld's 
and the Castle are decidedly the most pleasant. The city 
contains 120 churches, many of which are beautiful buildings, 
and constructed in a chaste style of architecture. The literary 
and scientific institutions in the city are Columbia College, es- 
tablished in 1754, Medical College, Lyceum of Natural His- 
tory, Historical Society, Atheneum, Society Library, Acade- 
my of Fine Arts, National Academy of Design, Law Institute, 
Mercantile Library Association, &c. About 300,000 tons of 
shipping, comprising many of the most elegant and fast-sailing 
ships in the world, are owned here ; about seventy newspa- 
pers are published, and there are several extensive book-print- 
ing establishments in the city. The population of the city by 
the census of 1830 was 202,589, and by that of 1835 was 
found to be 270,0£*9, and is now estimated at 275,000 souls. 

The first fortified settlement was made here in 1615 by the 
Dutch, five years after the settlement of Albany. 

Among the most elegant buildings are the City Hall, the new 
University, the Hall of Justice, built in the Egyptian style, 
on Franklin, Leonard, and Elm streets. It would require a 
volume to enumerate all the peculiarities of New- York. The 
best work to consult is the Picture of New- York, published 
by Goodrich, 1828. 

The present population, by the census of 1841, is 317,000, 
which includes the whole county. The number of inhabi- 
ants within the lamp district is over 300,000. 

(For Hotels, see Last Page.) 



ROUTE FROM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY 



[Refeiences.—* Places at which the regular steamboats running be- 
tween New- York and Albany land.— E. S. East side of the river.— W. 
S. West side of the river.— Distances on the river will be ascertained by 
referring to the Map of the Hudson which is connected with this work. — 
Distances on the canal will be seen by referring to the table at page 36.] 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

The Hudson River was first discovered September 4, 1609, 
by Henry Hudson, from whom it derives its name. It rises 
250 miles north of New- York, in a mountainous country on 
the confines of Canada, between Lakes Ontario and Cham- 
plain, and may justly be regarded as the Rhine of America. 
It is a noble river, abounding with scenery of the most sub- 
lime, picturesque, and romantic character ; not surpassed, for 
variety and grandeur, by any in the world. 

At the time appointed, the boat moves from the wharf 
*' like a thing of life," and the stranger finds himself in the 
midst of a varied and splendid scene. On the right he has 
New- York, with its Battery and Castle Garden ; on the left, 
Jersey City and Hoboken ; and on the south a view of the Nar- 
rows leading to Sandy Hook, and a far view of the Atlantic 
Ocean, 22 miles from the city. Directly opposite the Battery 
is seen Governor's Island, on which is situated Castle Wil- 
liams. The Quarantine ground at Staten Island is also seen 
in a southerly direction, and its white buildings form a stri- 
king object in looking down the bay. As the boat proceeds, 
on the right are seen the old State Prison (which is no longer 
occupied, as the prisoners have been removed to the new 
prison at Singsing), Fort Gansevoort, and the Episcopal The- 
ological Seminary, built of gray newn stone, and about three 
miles farther the Orphan Asylum, a large yellow building of 
mixed Gothic and modern architecture. On the left the shady 
walks of Hoboken, the cottage in the "Elysian Fields," and 
the late Col. Stevens's mansion on the promontory called " Ho- 
boken Point" arrest the attention. A short distance above, 
the hills of Weehawken are seen ; and beyond is seen High- 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 11 

wood, the beautiful residence of James G. King, Esq. Wee- 
hawken, the romantic beauties of which have inspired the 
sprightly muse of Halleck, is the celebrated duelling-ground, 
and the spot where the fatal duel between Colonel Aaron 
Burr and General Hamilton was fought, 1804. It is 3 miles 
from the city, and its retired walks and convenient solitude 
have created its notoriety as the place where " affairs of hon- 
our" are generally settled. A neat marble monument was 
here erected to the memory of Hamilton ; but it has been re- 
moved within a few years, his remains having been interred 
in Trinity churchyard, beneath a fine monument, enclosed in 
an iron railing. 

The Palisadoes commence at Weehawken, and extend 
about 20 miles up the western side of the river. These are 
a range of basalt (the altitudes of which are from 30 to 550 
ffeet), which form almost one impassable barrier, presenting 
nearly a perpendicular surface. 

The Lunatic Asylum (E. S.), 7 miles from the city, is 
built of hewn freestone. The situation is beautiful and com- 
manding. 

Harlaem (E. S.). a small village containing a church, 
three stores, a blacksmith's shop, &c. The ridge of highland 
which extends across the island is called Harlaem Heights, 
on which, during the revolution, a line of fortifications was 
thrown up quite across to the East River. To this place the 
new railroad is completed from New- York. (See Railroads.) 

Fort Lee (W. S.), on the brow of the Palisadoes, 300 feet 
above the level of the water ; this fort was evacuated in 1776. 

Fort Washington (E. S.). The ruins of this fortress are 
on the summit of a high hill, 12 miles from the city. This 
fort was surrendered by the Americans to the Hessians in 
1776, together with 2600 men. 

Spuyten Duyvel Creek (E. S.), 13 miles from the city. 
This creek derived its name from the following circumstance. 
When New-Amsterdam (now New- York) was in possession 
of the Dutch, Peter Stuyvesant, then governor, sent Antony 
Van Corlaer, his right-hand man and sounder of brass, alias 
trumpeter, on an important message up the river. On his ar- 
rival at this creek, having no means of passing it, he paused 
in much perplexity : but his zeal to accomplish the mission 
was not to be overcome by the want of a boat, so he very he- 
roically threw oft' his coat and made a vow ne wouid cross it 



12 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

" spuyten duyvel." *' It was a dark and stormy night when 
the good Antony arrived at the famous creek (sagely denomi- 
nated Harlaem River) which separates the island of Manahatta 
from the mainland. The wind was high, the elements were 
in an uproar, and no Charon could be found to ferry the ad- 
venturous sounder of brass across the water. For a short 
time he vapoured like an impatient ghost upon the brink, and 
then, bethinking himself of the urgency of his errand, took a 
hearty embrace of his stone bottle, swore most valorously 
that he would swim across en spijt en Duyvel (in spite of the 
Devil) ! and daringly plunged into the stream. Luckless 
Antony ! Scarce had he buffeted half way over when he was 
observed to struggle violently, as if battling with the spirit of 
the waters ; instmctively he put his trumpet to his mouth, and 
giving a vehement blast — sank for ever to the bottom !" — 
Knickerbocker, p. 232. 

Philipsbukgh (E. S.), 17 miles from the city, contains a 
church, several houses, and villas. 

Fori Independence (E. S.). Directly opposite this fort the 
Palisadoes are of a greater height than at any other point. 

DoBBs's Ferry (E. S.), 22^ miles from the city. 

Piermont (W. S.). The depot of the New- York and Erie 
Railroad is here seen, 24 miles from the city. The cars are 
already running to Goshen, 46 miles. 

Tappan (W. S.), 28 miles from New- York. The place 
where the New- York and Erie Railroad terminates. Andre 
was executed about a mile from this village. The spot where 
he was buried is still pointed out and frequently visited, al- 
though his remains were disinterred a few years since and 
taken to England. 

Tarrytown (E. S.), 30 miles from New- York. Major An- 
dre was captured at this place when returning from his visit to 
General Arnold, and on his way to the British lines, Septem- 
ber 23, 1780. The tree under which he was taken was struck 
by lightning on the very day the news of General Arnold's 
death was received at Tarrytown, July 31, 1801. Strange 
coincidence ! It was a whitewood tree, and uncommonly 
large, being 26 feet in circumference and 111 high. Steam- 
boats touch daily. 

Nyack, a small village a little north of Tappan. 

SiNGsiNG (E. S.), 33 miles from the city. The new State 
Prison is located on the bank of the river at this place. It 
was commenced in 1825, and has been tenanted nearly 9 years. 
Its dimensions are 4^1 by 480 feet ; it has a double row o! 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 13 

cells, built back to back, four tiers high, and 200 in each tier, 
making in all 800 cells. It is built of hewn marble, quarried 
on the premises. The whole work was performed by the con- 
victs. They have lately erected and finished two extensive 
wings, which extend from the main building to the wharf. 
The discipline is that of the Auburn prison, probably the best 
now in use. 

Haverstkaw (W. S.), 36 nxiles from New- York. The 
town includes Stony Point, with the old Forts Clinton and 
Montgomery, so celebrated in our revolutionary history. It 
has several landings and some considerable traffic. 

Sleepy Hollow (E. S.), a little above Singsing. This is the 
place where Washington Irving locates the scene of his tale 
of the same name in the *' Sketch Book." 

Grassy Point (W. S.), 1 mile south of Stony Point. There 
is a fine mansion here belonging to Mr. Piatt, of New- York. 

Stony Point (W. S.), 40 miles from New- York, is a bold, 
rough promontory, with a lighthouse on its summit. It was 
fortified during the American war, and taken from General 
"Wayne by the British in 1778 ; but retaken 15th July, 1779. 
This gallant action revived the confidence of the American 
people. (See Gordon's History.) 

Verplanck's Point (E. S.), opposite, was also the site of 
a fort. Opposite this point lay the frigate to receive General 
Arnold after his treachery at West Point. It is now the site 
of a new town, and the enterprising proprietors have made al- 
ready great improvements. 

♦Caldwell's (W. S.), 44 miles from New- York. This 
is the first landing of the New- York and Albany steamboats. 
Here the Highlands commence. 

Peekskill Village is directly opposite Caldwell's. 

Anthony'' s Nose (E. S.). The mountain of this name is not, 
as is generally supposed, the one that exhibits a resemblance 
of the profile of a human face. It is directly opposite Fort 
Montgomery Creek. Its elevation is 1228 feet from the level 
of the river, and its name is derived, according to Irving, from 
the nose of Anthony Van Corlaer. From here to Fort Mont- 
gomery, a ruin on the opposite side, a large boom and chain 
were extended during the revolutionary war, at the expense of 
70,000 pounds sterling. It was partly destroyed by Sir Hen- 
ry Clinton in 1777. Some of the links of this chain may be 
seen in the museum of the Albany Institute. Other portions, 
it is saidy were canied to Gibraltar, and ara there in use at the 
B 



14 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

moles. In the British accounts of that time, it is said a sec- 
ond boom was destroyed at Fort Constitution. 

After proceeding two miles farther, an extensive range of 
mills are seen on the west side of the river, supplied with 
water from Buttermilk Falls, a beautiful little cascade which 
comes foaming and tumbhng down the rocks. Mr. Arden, 
whose house is seen opposite the falls, has an immense tract 
at this place, on which is situate the Beverly House,* a quar- 

* During the revolution this was the property of Charles Beverly 
Robinson (a colonel in the British army, though an American by birth), 
but in possession of the Americans, and the quarters of General Bene- 
dict Arnold, who infamously attempted to betray his country to her 
enemies in the year 1780. His plot was discovered in time to avert tne 
fatal blow, but not to secure the traitor. Colonel Robinson and Major 
Andre were sent by Sir Henry Clinton, the British commander, on board 
the sloop of war Vulture, at New-York, with orders to proceed up the 
river and have an interview with Arnold. They anchored opposite 
Fort Montgomery. Andre went to Beverly House, saw the traitor, and 
received the draughts of all the works at West Point and the passes 
leading to them. Previous to this time, Arnold had never intrusted a 
paper out of his hands which might expose him to detection ; but now 
saw no danger in confiding these to Andre, who was to re-embark directly 
on Doard the sloop and make sail for New- York. Andre returned alone 
to «lie beach, whence a boat was to convey him to the Vulture ; but this 
arrAugement was defeated by an obstacle wholly unexpected ; the sloop 
having weighed anchor and moved down to Teller's Point, which divides 
Tappan and Haverstraw Bays. This movement having excited the sus- 
picions of the rowers of the boat in which Andre was to return, caused 
them peremptorily to refuse taking him on board. Finding all entreaties 
vain, he returned to Arnold, and consulted him on the propriety of 
urging the men to proceed. Arnold advised him to assume a disguise 
and return by land ; and wished to withdraw the papers intrusted to him, 
thinking it hazardous to send them by land. To this, however, Andre 
refused to accede, as he was? desirous of showing Clinton with what 
punctuality he had executed his mission. He disguised himself in a 
dress provided by a man named Joshua Smith, and, after secreting the 
letters in his boots, proceeded on his journey, accompanied by Smith ; 
each had a passport from Arnold " to go to the lines of White Plains, 
or lower, if the bearer thinks proper; he being on public business." 
"When they arrived in sight of the ground occupied by the English, 
Smith, seeing no one, said, " You are safe ; good-by," and returned at 
full speed. Andre proceeded, and was about entering the village of 
Tarrytown, when he was accosted by three men, arrested, searched, and 
the fatal papers found on him. Arnold soon heard of his arrest, im- 
mediately ordered his wife to burn hia papers, flew to his barge (which 
was always ready manned and lay at the small dock opposite Buttermilk 
Falls), and ordered the men to row him down to the Vulture. He 
arrived on board safe, and gave the men privilege to remain or return 
with the barge. They chose the latter. He was elevated to the rank of 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 15 

ter of a mile south of his dwelling, not in sight from the river. 
Three miles above, the location of the celebrated United 
States Military School comes in view. 

■*West Point (W. S.)- West Point is celebrated as the 
theatre of several important events during the revolutionary- 
struggle, the remembrance of which will cause every feeling 
heart to glow with patriotism. The Military Academy, under 
the superintendence of Colonel Thayer, has reached a celeb- 
rity alike creditable to him and honourable to our country. It 
was established in 1801, under the eye of General Williams, 
and the number of students is limited to 250. During the 
last winter a number of the public buildings were destroyed 
by fire. The cadets parade every evening at six o'clock, which 
exhibition, together with the " eloquent music" discoursed by 
the band, is calculated to excite the admiration of every vis- 
iter. On approaching the point, the first building noticed is 
the Hospital, which is a fine stone edifice, with a piazza in 
front, and an extensive wing at each end. The next objects 
worthy of attention are the ruins of the venerable Fort Put- 
nam, which occupy a majestic and commanding situation. 
Near the river is a kind of niche in the clitf, accommodated 
with a number of benches. This is called Kosciusko^s Gar- 
den. Clusters of lilachs are still growing, which are said to 
have been planted by the Polish patriot. There is also a 
spring of very fine water, over which the cadets have placed 
a marble reservoir, in which the water boils up with fine ef- 
fect. It was formerly diflicult of access, but is now accessi- 
ble by means of a flight of stone steps. A short distance 
from this place Kosciusko's monument is seen : it is built of 
fine hewn marble ; the inscription on it is — " Kosciusko. 
Erected by the corps of Cadets, 1828." After turning the 
point the Hotel comes in view : it is a fine, spacious house, 
iiecently kept by W. B. Cozzens, a gentleman long and ad- 
vantageously known to the visiters of West Point. During 

brigadier-general in the British army, which he held until June 14, 1801, 
when he died, at Gloucester Place, London, 

" Unwept, unhcnour'd, and unsung." 

Andre was tried as a spy, convicted, and suffered an ignominious 
death, which must have been preferable to the life of Arnold, rendered 
miserable by the contempt of those for whom he had sacrificed bis 
frieads, his home, his country, and his houour. 



16 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON, 

the war, a chevaux-de-frize was extended across from the 
wharf to Magazine Point, on Constitution Island, to prevent 
vessels from passing farther up the river. 

About a quarter of a mile above is a monument to the 
memory of a cadet who was killed by the bursting of a can- 
non. The names of several cadets are inscribed upon it. A 
short distance farther, at the water's edge, is a small cove, 
where is seen a small white house. This house is on the site 
of the building in which General Washington held his head- 
quarters during a part of the revolution. After proceeding 
about a mile beyond the landing, by taking a retrospect, the 
traveller has a magnificent view of the Military Academy, 
and all the buildings appertaining thereto. There are nine 
brick buildings for the officers and professors. The view of 
the Point from this distance is highly imposing. The num- 
ber of cadets allowed by Congress is 250, and 60 are an- 
nually admitted. The system of education is very thorough, 
and requires mental and physical strength for its attainment. 
The library is one of the finest in the country. Among the 
cannon kept here are two beautiful French pieces, presented 
by Louis XVI., and inscribed " Ultima ratio Regum." The 
parade ground is 188 feet above the river. Nothing can be 
more romantic than the scenery of West Point, nothing richer 
than its associations. It is not surprising that it has been the 
delightful theme of tourists and poets, and among the latter 
Mr. Charles F. Hoffman has not been the least enthusiastic of 
its admirers. Mr. Samuel Gouverneur has a beautiful resi- 
dence opposite West Point. The Highland School is lo- 
cated half a mile north. It was commenced in 1830, and is 
now becoming very popular. 

The Crow's Nest (W. S.) is the first mountain north of 
West Point, and has an indenture on its summit resembling 
a nest : hence its name. Elevation 1418 feet. Dr. Drake 
has celebrated the Crow's Nest in his poem of " The Culprit 
Fay." 

Cold Spring (E. S.), a small village about two miles north 
of West Point, on the opposite side, derives its name from a 
spring in the vicinity, which supplied the troops with water 
during the war. The West Point Foundry, under the super- 
intendence of Governeur Kemble, Esq., is situated at this 
place. This establishment, for the manufacture of cannon and 
machinery, comprehends two blast-furnaces, three air-fumaces, 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 17 

three cupola-fumaces, a boring-mill of nine gun-beds, and one 
for mortars and cylinders, with lathes, &c. ; three water- 
wheels, one of iron, 36 feet in diameter, with extensive shops, 
and a steam-engine in Beach-street, New-York, for the manu- 
facture of steam-engines and other machinery. The whole 
establishment employs daily from 450 to 500 workmen. 

Butter Hill is the last of the range on the west side. 
Its elevation is 1529 feet, greater than any of the Highlands 
except the " High Peak," which is 1689 feet. At the foot 
of it can be seen Putnam's Rock, which was rolled from the 
top in 1778 by a party of soldiers directed by General Put- 
nam. An individual, rather visionary than otherwise, of the 
name of Newbold, has been endeavouring for a number of 
years to establish three cities on the top of this mountain. 
Their names are Faith, Hope, and Charity. ' He intends con- 
structing a railway from the river up the mountain, with an 
engine stationed at the summit, by which merchandise, &c., 
will be drawn up for the use of the inhabitants. 

Break-neck Hill is the last of the range of Highlands on the 
east side ; it is a very rough, craggy mountain, 1187 feet high. 
When directly opposite, the profile of a human face, called 
*' Turk's Face," can be seen on the point of rock which pro- 
jects farthest southward. 

PolopeWs Island. This is the name of the small round 
island in the middle of the river at this place. This island is 
the residence of nothing save snakes, which are found in im- 
mense numbers. 

Cornwall (W. S.). A small village 4 miles south of New- 
burgh. This place sends much wood and stone to New- 
York. 

New- Windsor (W. S.) is two miles south of Newburgh. 
There are two docks at this place : a few yards back from the 
south dock is seen a low house with three dormant windows ; 
in 1774 this was the domicil of Mr. Ellison ; General Wash- 
ington resided with his family most part of that winter and 
held his quarters there ; a short distance back of this, on the 
eminence, is a beautiful mansion belonging to Mr. Bullus ; 
from this place there is a delightful prospect for 20 miles 
around. 

*Newburgh (W, S.). Newburgh was first settled by some 
emigrants from Palatine in the year 1708, and is now a place 
of some considerable magnitude, containing a population of 
B2 



18 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

about 4000. Being situated on the declivity of a hill, it pro1> 
ably makes a better appearance from the river than from any 
other point. A stage funs from this place to Ithaca daily. A 
quarter of a mile south of the village stands the old stone 
house in which Washington held his quarters at the time when 
the celebrated " Newburgh Letters" made their appearance. 
Extensive manufactories and a whaling company exist at this 
place. It was once talked of as the seat of the National 
Government. Nearly opposite are the two loftiest mountains 
in the Highlands: Beacon Hill, 1471 feet high, and the Grand 
Sachem, 1685. The ascent to the former is so easy that car- 
riages have ascended to the very top, whence the view is sub- 
lime. 

Presqu' Isle, nearly opposite Newburgh, is the residence 
of Mr. — Denning. This situation affords a most delightful 
prospect of country, and its gardens, shrubbery, and forest- 
trees are very charming. 

FisHKiLL (E. S.) is directly opposite Newburgh. The 
Matteawan Cotton Factory is situated near this place. It be- 
longs to the Messrs. Schenck, of New-York. The village is 
6 miles east from the river. The factories of this town are 
quite celebrated. 

Low Point (E. S.). There is a small cluster of white 
buildings on this point. It is 2 miles above Fishkill. 

Dans Kamer Point (W. S.), b\ miles above Newburgh, is 
a rough peninsula. Knickerbocker, speaking of Gov. Stuy* 
vesant's passage up the river, says, "Even now I have it on 
the point of my pen to relate how his crew was most horribly 
frightened, on going on shore above the Highlands, by a gang 
of merry roystering devils, frisking and curveting on a huge 
flat rock which projected into the river, and which is called the 
DuyveWs Dans Kamer to this very day." 

The splendid mansion with a wing at each end, on the 
brow of the hill just below this place, is the residence of Mr. 
Armstrong. 

Hampton (W. S.), 69 miles from New- York. 

Hamburgh is directly opposite Hampton. The creek 
which empties into the river at this point is called Wappin- 
ger's Creek. One mile and a half above this place, on a pro- 
jecting point, is seen a fine brick building, with an arbour on 
the hill. This was the residence of George Clinton, former- 
ly governor of this state, and celebrated in the annals of New- 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 19 

York as a statesman, a soldier, and a good citizen. Gen. 
James Tallmadge is the present occupant. 

Jew's Creek (W. S.)is 1^ miles above Hampton. Brick- 
manufacturing is carried on at this place very extensively. 

Milton (W. S.), 72 miles from' New- York. The village 
opposite is called Barnegat. The shore between Hampton 
and Milton is literally covered with limekilns. 

The beautiful mansion of Col. H. A. Livingston is situated 
in delightful grounds on the margin of the river, about 1 mile 
south of Poughkeepsie. 

*PouGHKEEPsiE (E. S.) is locat^d about 1 mile from the 
landing. This place was originally settled by some Dutch 
families about the year 1735, and derived its name from an 
Indian word, Apokeepsing, signifying safe harbour. Here, in 
1788, the New- York Convention met, and adopted the Feder- 
al Constitution. It was incorporated as a village in 1801, and 
now contains a population of more than 5000. It is a beau- 
tiful and pleasant place, the buildings and grounds of its in- 
habitants displaying much taste. Its importance as a river- 
town is very considerable, having an extensive back country 
to support its commercial prosperity. The shore is rough and 
bold, and the steamboat landing is not seen until the boat 
reaches the dock, in consequence of a high rocky projection, 
called the " Call Rock." There is a very fine view, for sev- 
eral miles north and south, from the top of this rock. There 
are two fine hotels in the village, equal to any between the 
cities of New- York and Albany. It is 74 miles from New- 
York, and 75 from Albany. Population in 1830, 7222; in 
1835, 9281. 

New Paltz (W. S.). This village is opposite Pough- 
keepsie. 

*Hyde Park (E. S.). A large tract of land at this place 
formerly belonged to Dr. David Hosack, an eminent physician 
of New-York, who retired from the city to this delightful part 
of country a few years ago. He died in New- York in Decem- 
ber, 1835. The mansion is in sight from the river. There is 
a park for deer, arbours, lawn, and a hothouse, which contains 
specimens of almost all our domestic plants, together with a 
great variety from other countries. 

Half a mile above Dr. Hosack's is seen Judge Pendleton's 
mansion ; and two miles farther is that of Hamilton Wilkes, 
Esq. Three miles above, Beaver Creek empties itself into 
the Hudson. 



% 

20 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

Esopus Island is situated at the mouth of the creek. 

Lewises Dock (E.S.)- After proceeding a few miles far- 
ther and turning a point of land, a small dock is seen, and a 
splendid brick building a few yards in the rear. This is the 
residence of General Morgan Lewis, formerly governor of the 
State of New-York. A few yards above Governor Lewis's 
is the beautiful mansion of James Duane Livingston, Esq. 

Staatsburgh (E. S.). The beautiful mansion on the hill 
at this place is the residence of James Thompson, Esq, well 
known as EUerslie. This place, celebrated for its hospitality, 
and the elegant and accomplished manners of the fair hostess, 
now abroad, is on sale. 

*Rhinebeck (E. S.). This is a small landing, whence a 
sloop sails twice a week with produce for New- York. The 
village is three miles in the interior, situated on the Rhine- 
beck fiats, and containing about 50 houses and 719 inhabi- 
tants. This place affords a fine distant view of the Catskill 
Mountains and the Mountain House. 

* Columbus Point is on the opposite side of the river. The 
junction of the Rondout Creek with the Hudson River is at 
this place. The terminating point of the Delaware and Hud- 
son Canal is about 4 miles inland, where it empties into the 
Rondout. The canal at the surface is 36 feet in breadth, 
and 4 feet deep. The locks are 72 feet in length and 9 feet 
wide. The water rises in them from 8 to 11 feet. Two 
packet boats were lately, if not now, in operation on the canal, 
leaving Bolton, one and a quarter miles from Columbus Point, 
every Monday and Thursday for Honesdale, the head of the 
canal, whence passengers are taken to the coalmines on the 
railroad. Stages are in readiness at Honesdale to convey 
passengers to Utica, Binghampton, Owego, and Ithaca. 

Kingston is a pretty village, located on a beautiful plain in 
the Esopus valley, between the Rondout and Esopus Creeks. 
The soil, though sandy, is fertile, and the houses bear the 
marks of antiquity. A few days before the surrender of Bur- 
goyne, on the i5th October, 1777, this village was burned 
by the British under General Vaughan. The reason for this 
ruthless attack, which for a time overwhelmed the inhabitants 
with ruin, has entirely escaped the attention of most readers. 
It was doubtless an act of revenge, in consequence of the 
fact that at Kingston, on the 20th of April in the same year, 
a convention of delegates met and adopted a Constitution for 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 21 

the State of New- York. The expedition was under thexcom- 
mand of General Vaughan, whose troops sailed in batteaux, 
escorted by a squadron of light frigates under the command of 
Sir James Wallace, who was well acquainted with the river. 

After the destruction of the town and the vessels in the 
river, with the exception of an armed galley which escaped up 
the creek, the expedition returned to New- York. Had it 
pushed on to Albany, it would have probably saved Burgoyne, 
and given an entire diflferent turn to that campaign. The two 
frigates employed on this occasion were the Rose and Tartar, 
each carrying 20 guns. An inscription upon the village church 
recorded the deed of barbarism ; but this venerable monument 
of antiquity has been compelled to yield to the innovations of 
improvement, and is now no more. The population of this 
village is about 2000. 

Magdalen Island (E. S.), 8 miles above Rhinebeck, is the 
property of Dr. Mastin. His residence is handsomely located 
on the south end of the island. He has an arbour " founded 
on a rock," from which a splendid view of the river is afforded 
both north and south. 

Shultz^s Dock (E. S.). A sloop sails from this place to 
New- York once a week. 

Lower Red Hook (E. S.). This was formerly a place 
of considerable business, but within a few years it has all 
been diverted to the landing 3 miles above. Just south of 
the landing is a neat, delightfully-situated building, with a 
small grove in front, which is decorated with an arbour, 
and a number of rustic seats are placed about tmder the trees. 
It is the residence of Captain Brown, late of the United States' 
army, A few yards north of the dock is the seat of J. R. 
Livingston, Esq, The mansion is large and splendid. The 
mansions of J. C. Stevens, J. C. Montgomery, and R. S. Liv- 
ingston are situated between Lower and Upper Red Hook. 

Glasgow Village (W. S.), 2 miles above Lower Red 
Hook landing. A short distance above here is the residence 
of Rev. Mr. Overbagh. 

*Upper Red Hook (E. S.) The village is about 2 miles 
from the landing, in the interior. There is a hotel, a number 
of stores, storehouses, &c., at the landing. 

The mansion south of the dock is the residence of Mr. 
Auchmuty. The first mansion north of the south landing be- 
longs to John Swift Livingston, Esq, It is one of the most 



22 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

beautiful locations on the Hudson. After proceeding 2 miles 
farther, the traveller has a view of the splendid brick mansion 
of R. L. Livingston, Esq., foiTnerly the residence of Chan- 
cellor Livingston, A large and well-stocked hothouse is at- 
tached to the south end of the building. E. P. Livingston, 
Esq.'s, mansion is a few yards farther north. 

Ury (W. S.), opposite Upper Red Hook landing, country- 
seat of Henry Barclay, Esq. A short distance south is the 
mansion of a distinguished divine, the Rev. Dr. Brodhead, 
commanding a superb view of the river in front, and the mount- 
ains in the rear. 

Saugerties Village, situated about 1 mile west from the 
confluence of the Esopus and Hudson Rivers, containing 1800 
inhabitants. The interjutting hills obstruct the view of the 
most considerable portion of it from the latter stream. It is 
only of seven or eight years' growth, and at present contains 
very extensive manufactories of bar iron, paper, and white 
lead, besides many other of minor importance ; a population of 
3000 souls, and a water-power still unemployed, which prom- 
ises a corresponding continuance of prosperity for many years 
to come. This village chiefly owes its origm and importance 
to the exertions and enterprise of Mr. Barclay. There are 
falls of about 45 feet perpendicular height on the Esopus 
River at this village, occasioned by natural and artificial ob- 
structions, which flood the water back two or three miles, 
forming a most beautiful sheet or lake. Farther up, at the 
distance of about three miles, are the great falls of the Esopus, 
which, together with the variety and beauty of the adjacent 
scenery, and the celebrated white-lead factory of Colonel 
Clark, present claims for the gratification of the curious of no 
inferior order. Sportsmen will find fish and fowl in the great- 
est abundance in the vicinity. A new landing is about to be 
erected at the lighthouse, to be connected with the west shore. 
The roads in the neighbourhood, during the temperate and 
bland season of the year, are generally good ; and that, in par- 
ticular, which leads to the Pine Orchard through Kauterskill 
Clove. The scenery along this clove is truly Alpine, and un- 
surpassed by any of the same character within the United 
States. Trout are taken in large quantities a few miles back 
in the country. There is a good hotel, and carriages and 
horses for the convenience of sojourners ; and, the climate be- 
ing healthy, there are few places equally accessible to the cit- 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 23 

izens of New- York which offer greater inducements for a tem- 
porary residence during the summer months. 

Bristol (W. S.). This is the landing for the passengers 
destined to Saugerties, although some of the boats always land 
on the other side. 

Trumphoor^s Landing (W. S.). There are four or five 
houses at this place ; it is the next above Bristol. 

Oak Hill (E. S.). The large storehouse and dock at this 
place belong to Harman Livingston, Esq. His splendid man- 
sion is situated on the hill just south of the landing. 

Ramshorn Creek is seen winding through the marsh about 
a quarter of a mile south of the Catskill dock. 

*Catskill (W. S.) contains a population of about 2500 
souls. This is the landing-place for those who visit the Cat- 
skill Mountain House. A stage leaves Catskill every morn- 
ing at 7 o'clock for Owego, whence passengers take the rail- 
road, 29 miles, to Ithaca, to meet the steamboat on Cayuga 
Lake, which runs to Cayuga bridge, where stages are in read- 
iness to convey passengers immediately to Rochester. Pas- 
sengers for Ithaca generally land at this place or Newburgh. 
A railroad to Canajoharie is in progress, and six miles are ac- 
tually constructed. 

Catskill Creek empties into the Hudson at the south side 
of the dock. It is a very considerable stream, and forms a 
harbour for the sloops that sail from this place. 

Stages are always at the dock on the arrival of the 7 o'clock 
boats from New- York, ready to take parties to the Mountain. 
The distance by the road is 12 miles, although in a direct line 
it is only eight. The time taken in performing the journey is 
about four hours in going and a little over two hours in re- 
turning. The road is very fine and level for 9 miles, when 
the ascent from the foot of the mountain commences by a 
winding road, which leads to the west end of the Pine Or- 
chard ; for the following description of whicli we are indebted 
to the late Mr. N. G. Elliot, of Catskill. 

Pine Orchard. " Few places of fashionable resort present 
stronger attractions to the tourist than the Pine Orchard. A 
few years ago this delightful retreat was almost unknown, and 
rarely visited but by the hardy hunter in pursuit of the deer, 
the bear, and the wolf, that had hitherto maintained undis- 
turbed possession of its cliffs and caverns. At length the 
tale of the extent and beauty of the prospect, and the grandeur 



24 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

of the scenery, drew the attention of individuals of taste ; and 
the glowing descriptions they gave of its surpassing magnifi- 
cence effectually roused and fixed the attention of the public. 
Each successive season the number of visiters has increased, 
till the temporai-y buildings at first erected for their accom- 
modation have given place to a splendid hotel, 140 feet in 
length and four stories high. This establishment has been 
erected by the Mountain Association, at an expense of about 
$22,000. It occupies the eastern verge of a table of rock 
some six acres in extent, and about 3000 feet above the river. 
The ride to the foot of the mountain is not particularly inter- 
esting; ; but, as you ascend, every moment develops something 
magnificent and nevf. The sides of the mountain, steep and 
seemingly inaccessible, tower far above you, clothed in the 
rich deep foliage peculiar to such regions ; while below your 
path a clear stream runs, one moment bubbling over its rocky 
bed, and the next leaping down its cascades to the valley. 
The road is extremely circuitous, and so completely hemmed 
in by the luxuriant growth of forest trees, that the traveller is 
for a long time unable to judge of his progress in the ascent 
by any view of the country he has left. At an abrupt angle 
of the road, however, he obtains at once a full view of the 
Mountain House — perched like the eyrie of an eagle among 
the clouds, or rather like an enchanted castle in a fairy tale — 
seemingly inaccessible to mortal foot ; still it reminds him of 
such terrestrial comforts as are sure to be acceptable after 
exercise in the pure air of the mountains. Another turn, and 
it again disappears, and the excited traveller next finds him- 
self on the level rock of the Pine Orchard, and approaching 
the hotel from the rear. A moment more, and he is on the 
edge of the precipice in front of the noble building. At first 
glance he would be led to believe, with Leather Stocking, 
that creation was all before him, and he is forced to admit 
that his wildest anticipations are more than realized. The 
view from Table Rock has been compared, by those who 
have seen both, to that from the summit of Vesuvius over the 
Bay of Naples and the adjacent coasts. In features they are 
unlike, but in character the same. From this lofty eminence 
all inequalities of surface are overlooked. A seemingly end- 
less succession of woods and waters, farms and villages, 
towns and cities, are spread out as upon a boundless map. 
Far beyond rise the Taghkanick Mountains, and still farther 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 25 

the highlands of Connecticut and Massachusetts. A little to 
the left, and at a still greater distance, the Green Mountains 
of Vermont stretch away to the north, and their blue summits 
and the blue sky mingle and melt together. The beautiful 
Hudson, studded with islands, appears narrowed in distance, 
with steamboats almost constantly in sight ; while vessels of 
every description, spreading their white canvass to the breeze, 
are moving rapidly over its surface, or idly loitering in the 
calm. These may be traced to the distance of nearly 70 
miles with the naked eye ; and again, at times, all below is 
enveloped in dark cloud and rolling mist, which, driven about 
by the wind, is continually assuming new, wild, and fantastic 
forms. The whole produces an effect on the beholder un- 
equalled by that of any other scene in this country. The 
gazer turns from the sight, compelled to acknowledcre that 
all is beautiful and all is new. Visiters, who have here as- 
sembled from various motives, all depart satisfied and de- 
lighted. The student, pale and exhausted with study and 
confinement, has for a while forsaken his books, and found new 
vigour in the ' medicinal freshness' of the mountain air. The 
idler and the invalid have been well rewarded for their toils ; 
the one by the accession of health and strength, the bright- 
ened eye and quickened pulse, and the other by obtaining ex- 
citement, exercise, and pleasure, in exchange for the irksome 
monotony of the world below. All are for a while freed from 
the idle ceremonials of life, and permitted to hold unrestrained 
converse with Nature and her works." 

The Catskills are a continuation of the Alleghanies, as the 
Highlands are of the Blue Ridge. The Round Top is 3105 
feet, and the High Peak 3019, above the level of the Hud- 
son. The peaks of these mountains are a kind of conglomer- 
ate or pudding-stone. The celebrated description of the 
scenery by Leather Stocking, one of the characters in the 
Pioneers, is doubtless familiar to our readers. 

A walk, or drive in the wagons provided on purpose, of 
one and a half miles, brings you to 

Cauterskill Falls. Here the outlet of two inconsider- 
able lakes, on whose borders the cranberry grows profusely, 
and beneath whose surface the horseleech abounds, leaps 
dov^rn a perpendicular fall of 180 feet ; then ghdes away 
through a channel it has worn in the rock to a second fall of 
80 feet. Below this it is lost in the dark ravine through 
C 



26 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

which it finds its way to the valley of the Catskill. The 
waterfall, bold as it is, forms, however, but one of the many 
interesting features of this scene. Standing on the edge of 
the first fall, you look down into a dreary chasm, whose steep 
sides, covered with the dark ivy and the thick foliage of sum- 
mer, seem like a green bed prepared for the reception of the 
waters. Making a circuit from this spot, and descending about 
midway of the first fall, you enter a footpath which conducts 
into an immense natural amphitheatre behind the waterfall. 
The effect of this scene is imposing beyond description. Far 
over your head projects a smooth surface of rock, forming a 
magnificent ceiling to this amphitheatre. In front is the ever- 
falling water, and beyond the wild mountain-dell, with the 
clear blue sky above it : the scene can only be appreciated on 
the spot. The tourist should bear in mind that the falls must 
be seen from below to produce the best effect, and that the 
view from the Pine Orchard is much finer from 3 o'clock P.M. 
till sunset than in the middle of the day. 

Coaches leave the Mountain every morning at 7 o'clock, 
and arrive in time to take the boat that leaves Albany at 7 
o'clock for New- York. They also leave in the afternoon, and 
arrive in time for the day-boat for Albany and the night-boat 
for New-York. 

*HuDsoN (E. S.) was first founded in 1784, by 30 indi- 
viduals, emigrants from Providence, R. I., and is now quite a 
large and important city. It is 116 miles from New- York 
and 29 miles from Albany. Its population is about 6000. It 
is situated on an elevated plain, and the bank rises from the 
river in the form of an abrupt bluff, from 50 to 60 feet in 
height. It is to be hoped that this bluff will some day be cut 
through, thus opening the principal street to the river, and 
making a splendid landing for the steamboats. Hudson has 
great advantages of water-power in the vicinity, and ranks as 
the third in manufacturing importance in the state. A com- 
pany of gentlemen of this place have recently engaged in the 
whale-fishery. They have ten ships 'employed, and make it 
profitable. This is one landing-place for thooC who wish to 
visit New-Lebanon Springs at the Shaker Settlement, on 
the road from Albany to Boston, about 25 miles from Albany 
and 30 from Hudson. It is a delightful village, containmg 
many attractions for travellers, among which is a mineral 
spring, which, together with the pleasantness of the country, 



PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 27 

renders it the resort of invalids, and those who seek for health 
in the fresh air of the country. There are here several ba- 
thing-houses, well conducted, for which the water is well adapt- 
ed, being less medicinal than that of the Saratoga Springs, 
but clear and soft. In the vicinity of the spring is the Shaker 
village, consisting of a considerable number of plain wooden 
houses, painted and adorned in the most unostentatious man- 
ner. The peculiar religious services of this people excite the 
curiosity of strangers, and access to them is easily obtained. 
The settlement consists of about 600 persons, which " little 
community, slowly increasing in numbers, pretty rapidly in 
wealth and power, is a sort of miniature of a world, all of one 
sort, beyond which it is deemed fatal to extend a look or a 
mental vision !" 

Stages leave Boutwell's hotel for the Springs daily at half 
past 7 in the morning, and in the afternoon on the arrival of 
the morning boats from New- York. The Claverack Falls are 
9 miles from Hudson. No stages run regularly to the Falls, 
but they can be procured at any time at Boutwell's hotel. The 
water falls 150 feet without interruption, except by a small 
point of rock which juts out from the main crag. 

The railroad from Hudson to West Stockbridge is now 
completed and in operation. The depot is seen at the south 
side of the city. 

Athens, directly opposite Hudson, is a flourishing town, 
and contains about 1500 inhabitants. A large number of 
sloops sail from this place, and numerous mansions of private 
gentlemen adorn it. A canal has been cut through a low 
marshy island in the river between this place and Hudson, 
through which a horse ferryboat plies regularly every hour. 

CoLUMBiAviLLE (E. S.), 4 miles above Hudson, is in 
sight from the river, about a quarter of a mile from its bank. 
It is situated on Kinderhook Creek, which empties into the 
river, and contains upward of 50 houses. There are two 
cotton factories at the village, owned by Messrs. Wild and 
Jenkins. The scenery in the vicinity is of a wild and ro- 
mantic character. 

Four Mile Point (W. S.) is a high, rocky point of land op- 
posite Columbiaville, on which io a lighthouse. 

■*CoxsACKiE Landing (W. S.). This is quite an enter- 
prising place ; a number of sloops sail for New- York daily 
with the produce of the interior. The village is one mile in 



28 PASSAGE UP THE HUDSON. 

rear of the Landing, and has about the same number of 
buildings. There is a handsome brick church at the landing, 
an extensive haypress, and a shipyard in which many sloops 
and canal-boats are built, and two or three steamboats have 
been constructed. Small ships have occasionally hauled up 
here to repair. 

*Stuyvesant Landing (E. S.) contains about 50 houses, 
a few stores, a postoffice, church, &c. Nearly opposite is a 
lighthouse, erected in 1829 under the direction of Samuel 
Swartwout, collector of the port of New- York. Two miles 
above, on the east side, is another, which was erected at the 
same time. 

KiNDERHooK is situated 5 miles inland. The landing is 
19 miles from Albany. 

New Baltimore (W. S.) is 15 miles from Albany. There 
is a yellow storehouse on the dock, from which a sloop sails 
once a week. 

*CoEyMANs (W. S.). Red storehouse on one wharf, white 
on the other. There is a stone building just south of this 
landing on which an antiquary might gaze with interest. A 
flouring-mill will be seen a little north of the village. The 
name of this place is derived from that of the first patentee. 

Castleton (E. S.), 8 miles from Albany; brick store on 
one dock, white haypress on the other. 

Staat's place (E. S.), 5 miles from Albany, is called Hoge- 
herghy which, in English, signifies high hill. 

Van Wie^s Point (W. S.), 5 miles from Albany. 

The Overslaugh, noio about 4 miles below Albany, is a 
place where the channel is very shoal and narrow, and occa- 
sionally the steamboats are obliged to " lay to" for an hour 
or two until the tide rises. An immense sum has been ex- 
pended for the improvement of the channel. The old system 
of lateral dikes is abandoned, and a new one making longitudi- 
nal piers, connecting the island, and confining tiu, water to the 
centre of the river, has been adopted. To Colonel De Witt 
Clinton, Jr., the plan is justly attributed. The effect, so far, 
has answered the expectations of the public, and there can be 
no doubt that the appropriations annually making by Con- 
gress will be faithfully and successfully applied. Deep water 
will enable the people of Troy and Albany to enter into the 
sealing business, the cod fisheries, and the West India trade. 



ALBANY. 29 

An Albany sloop under Captain Dean sailed round the world 
years ago. Albany is in sight from this place. 

Greenbush is nearly opposite Albany. On the heights 
above Greenbush, the remains of extensive barracks erected 
during the war are yet to be seen. At this place the Boston 
railroad will terminate. A steam ferryboat plies between the 
two places. 

The city of Albany is the capital of New- York, the 
" empire state," and contains a population of about 30,000 
souls. About the year 1610, some emigrants from Holland 
settled here ; and it is believed to be the oldest settlement in 
the United States, with the exception of Jamestown in Vir- 
ginia. 

After Hudson's discovery of the river bearing his name, he 
returned to Holland, and the States General granted a patent 
to sundry merchants for an exclusive trade on the river, who, 
in 1614, erected a small fort on an island a short distance 
below the present city, which, however, was shortly after aban- 
doned in consequence of the floods. 

This fort was on Bear Island, and the commandant some- 
times fired on the skippers who did not salute the flag of the 
patroon of that day. In 1617 Fort Orange was erected, and 
its site is now occupied by the Fort Orange Hotel, formerly 
the residence of General Simeon De Witt and Abraham 
Bloodgood, deceased. 

The commercial position of Albany has always been com- 
manding from the earhest times. It was called the " Net" 
by the old inhabitants, from its catching all the northern and 
western trade. It still has its full share. It was thought the 
Erie Canal would prove its ruin, but it has been entirely the 
reverse. In 1820 its population was but 12,600. It is now 
upward of 30,000. Its history, when written, will be found 
very interesting, and it has been undertaken by a committee 
of the Albany Institute, which has been for years engaged in 
collecting materials, though an important hiatus is yet to be 
filled up relating to its capture by the English. 

On the 24th of September, 1664, the garrison at the fort 
surrendered to an English force under Colonel Carteret, who 
named the place Albany, in compliment to the Dake of York 
and Albany, the then proprietor of the province under a charter 
from Charles II., to whom the Dutch had surrendered. 

In 1686 the city was incorporated under a charter granted 
02 



30 ALBANY. 

by Governor Dongan. In this charter it is called " an ancient 
city." Previously to the revolutionary war the city was sur- 
rounded by a stockade ; the houses were in the Dutch style of 
architect\u*e, with the gable end to the street, and the city bore 
a very rural aspect. Almost every house had a large tree at 
the door, many of which we are told " were of prodigious size 
and extraordinary beauty." Until within a few years many of 
these old buildings were standing ; but recently the progress 
of modem improvement has destroyed nearly the whole of 
them ; a few, however, still remain, the solitary monuments of 
*• olden time." 

In 1754 a congress was convened here, consisting of com- 
missioners from seven of the provinces, who enrolled among 
their number some of the most celebrated names in our colo- 
nial history. The congress formed a plan of union for the 
colonies, and advanced such doctrines and views as to their 
rights as, we are fully justified in believing, left a permanent 
impression in the minds of the colonists. An interesting ac- 
count of this treaty is to be found in Franklin's works. 

Dui^ng the revolutionary war Albany was a post of great 
importance, being the point of communication with all the 
western and northern fortresses, and was always intrusted to 
men of the highest courage and ability. Among those chiefly 
in command were General Lafayette, General Schuyler, and 
Colonel Van Schaick, a veteran of two wars. 

Albany has now been the seat of government of the State 
of New- York nearly forty years, and has lately progressed rap- 
idly in extent and population. Its commerce and trade are 
very extensive. Being situated near the head of tide-water of 
the Hudson, and communicating directly with the canals, its 
facilities for transportation to all parts of the country are very 
great, and constantly increasing. From the favourable posi- 
tion of the city, and the almost boundless wealth of the inte- 
rior, it is but reasonable to suppose that Albany will con- 
tinue to grow and flourish, and long remain, what it already 
is, one of the first cities in our confederacy. 

The great Erie Canal terminates near the north line of the 
city, at the head of a spacious basin. There are in the city 
several fine and costly public buildings, as well as many pri- 
vate ones. 

The Capitol, at the head of State-street, is a fine stone ed- 
ifice, 115 feet front, and has a portico supported by four Ionic 



ALBANY. 31 

marble columns 33 feet in height. It is occupied for the sit- 
tings of the legislature and the state courts, and cost $120,000. 
The interior is shown to strangers. 

The Academy, which stands on the square north of the Cap- 
itol, is built of freestone, and considered the most chaste and 
beautiful specimen of architecture in the city. It cost about 
$100,000. The Lyceum of the " Albany Institute" occupies 
a part of this building. 

The Museum and Library are well worthy of examination. 
The Albany Institute contains some learned members, whose 
literary and scientific productions are well known abroad, where 
they have been republished extensively, and who are members 
of foreign societies of distinction. 

The City Hall, on the east side of the square, fronting the 
Capitol and Academy, is constructed of Singsing marble, and 
surmounted by a beautifully gilded dome ; the only one, it is 
believed, in America. It forms a prominent object in ap- 
proaching the city, and, when the sun shines upon it, can be 
seen twelve or fifteen miles distant. This building is used 
principally for city and county offices, and the several courts. 
The interior contains a model of the statue of Hamilton, and 
tablets to the memory of Clinton and Walter Scott. The 
view from the dome is exceedingly fine, and should by no 
means be omitted by strangers. The Neio State Hall, a little 
north of the City Hall, is a splendid building, and now in rapid 
progress to completion. 

Stanwix Hall, recently erected, is one of the most substan- 
tial and permanent buildings in our country. It is constructed 
of Quincy granite from the vicinity of Boston. The saloon 
of this building is at least equal to any similar one in the 
state. It is surmounted by a large dome, which adds greatly 
to its appearance. 

The Old State House, in State-street, is a building of an- 
tique appearance, but not otherwise remarkable. It is occu- 
pied by the secretary of state, chancellor, register, adjutant- 
general, but is to be sold on the completion of the new build- 
uig". 

The New Exchange, at the foot of State-street, is just 
erected of granite, and, though a heavy and ungraceful struc- 
ture, will be of great benefit to the town. It occupies the 
site of the old Albany Bank and the adjacent block. 

In the centre of Market and State streets, just in front of 



32 ALBANY. 

the Exchangfe, stood the original Dutch Church, an ancient 
structure, having many peculiarities of form and finish. The 
windows were of stained glass, containing the coats of arms 
of the old families. The old burgesses were in the habit of 
sitting in this church, in the winter season, with cocked hats 
upon their heads, tippets round their necks, and muffs upon 
their hands. Numerous engravings are preserved of this 
building. In State-street, just opposite the old state build- 
ings, was the site of the second fort erected in Albany, 
which is still remembered by many of the inhabitants. The 
old barracks within the walls was made the scene of a popular 
English novel ! The city was stockaded, and had gates at the 
north and south entrances from the country. 

In the lower part of the city, on an eminence overlooking 
the ferry, is the former residence of General Schuyler ; and in 
the upper part, the well known and hospitable mansion of the 
late '"' Patroon," S. Van Rensselaer, Esq. 

An extensive Almshouse and an Orphan Asylum are situated 
a little distance west from the city. 

The Museum Building, at the comer of State and Market 
streets, is built in nearly a semi-elliptical form, four stories 
hio-h besides the basement, and is, without doubt, one of the 
most showy buildings in the state, both as it regards architec- 
ture and the material of which it is constructed. The four 
upper stories are occupied by the Museum, containing a very 
large collection of curiosities of various descriptions, all of 
which are preserved and arranged in the most scientific man- 
ner. This concern is well worthy the attention of all who 
visit the city. The proprietors are valuable and much esteem- 
ed citizens. The terrace affords a very extended view of the 
surrounding country. 

The splendid saloon erected and finished this year for lec- 
tures, &c., is better adapted than any similar one in this coun- 
try. The interior is commodious and elegant. 

Albany contains twenty-four churches, some of them very 
elegant in their exterior and interior, two of them fitted with 
«' Spanish bells ;" two female academies, that in north Pearl- 
street possessing accomplished teachers, a fine library, ex- 
cellent apparatus, and a large number of scholars. At the 
Albany Academy, boys are taught all the branches of a 
collegiate education, and excel in mathematics and natural 
philosophy. The Young Men's Association is an institution 



ALBANY. 33 

where all the newspapers and periodicals of the day are re- 
ceived, lectures delivered during tlie winter season, and 
strangers are admittad by giving their names to the librarian. 
There are several banks, insurance companies, and associ- 
ations of a benevolent nature. The ladies of Albany of all 
classes are noted for their beauty. The principal hotels are 
the Eagle, the American, Congress Hall, the Mansion House, 
and the City Hotel. There are numerous respectable private 
boarding-houses, but a grand hotel is yet wanted to make 
Albany what it should be for travellers. 

The principal avenues for the city are the M'Adam road to 
Troy, the beautiful ride down the river on the west bank to 
Stoneridge and Kidd's Cave, and the Mohawk and Schenec- 
tady Railroad. 

The latter was commenced July 29, 1830, and, had it been 
directed by competent superintendents (we do not allude to 
the worthy engineers), a vast amount of money might have 
been saved to the stockholders. It was, unfortunately, made 
a stock-jobbing affair, and it has gradually fallen in value. 
The summit is 335 feet above the Hudson. The greatest 
height of embankment is 44 feet, the greatest depth of exca- 
vation 47 feet. There are two inclined planes, one at each 
end, where are stationary engines. It has for some time 
been well known that both these might be done away with, 
and an expense of $16,000 a year saved to the company. 
Until competent and well-read men are selected as directors 
of railroad companies, the stockholders must be content to 
lose their investments. 

Connected with this road are the Saratoga and Schenec- 
tady Railroad, and the Utica and Schenectady. The former 
is 21^ miles long, the inclination of the road being very 
slight. The latter is one of the finest and best-managed 
roads in this country. (See Railroads.) 

There are now no packet-boats on the canal between Al- 
bany and Schenectady. Two boats of this description were 
employed on this route in 1827 ; but did not succeed, in con- 
sequence of the detention at the locks — no less than ^7 in 
number. The distance is 28^ miles. By the railroad it is 
only 16 miles, which is accomplished in between one and 
two hours, while on the canal the passage occupies from 
twelve to fourteen hours. Persons wishing to take the pack- 
et-boats (which leave Syracuse for Rochester, Oswego, and 



34 ALBANY. 

Buffalo every day at 7i o'clock P.M.) will take the railroad 
cars from Albany at 7i o'clock A.M. Cars leave for Sara- 
toga direct, without delay, at Schenectady, daily at 7^ o'clock 
A.M. and 2^ o'clock P.M., from the depot 116 State-street. 
Cars also leave for Utica at 7 o'clock P.M. 

For Troy, 6 miles north of Albany, stages leave every half 
hour ; and there are small steamboats which leave on the ar- 
rival of every boat from New- York, and at intermediate hours. 

Cars leave daily for Utica, Syracuse, and Auburn at 7^ 
A.M. and 7 o'clock P.M. 

Stages for Whitehall, daily, at 9 o'clock A.M., to meet 
the new steamboats on Lake Champlain, which run to St. 
Johns, where passengers take the railroad to Laprairie and 
Montreal, distant about 30 miles. 

For Boston (through in two days), via Lebanon Springs, 
Pittsjield, Northampton, and Worcester, daily, except on 
Sunday, at 2 o'clock A.M. 

For Providence (through in two days), via Westjield, 
Munson, and Stockbridge, daily, except on Sunday, at 3 
o'clock A.M. 

For Hartford (through in one day), via Sheffield and Nor- 
folk, daily, except on Sunday, at 1 o'clock A.M. 

For New-Haven (through in a day and a half), via Litch- 
^eld, daily, except on Sunday, at 1 o'clock P.M. 

For Lebanon Springs, via Nassau Village, every morn- 
ing at 9 o'clock. 

For Montreal (during the winter), every morning at 2 
o'clock — through in three days. 

For Cherry Valley, Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, 
at 2 o'clock A.M., 

Baker's Office, South Market-street. 

Railroad Oflice, 115 State-street. 

Steamboat Office, on the pier foot of State-street and 
Hamilton-street. People's line foot of Lydius-street. 

Oswego Line of Lake Boats. Passengers, baggage, and 
goods forwarded by this line to Oswego, and all the ports on 
Lake Ontario. Also, to any place in the province of Upper 
Canada, and, via the Welland Canal, to Ohio, Michigan, and 
lUinois. 

c R. J. Vandewater, 100 Broad-st., New- York. 
Proprietors. < W. H. Vandewater, State-st., Albany. 
( Fitzhugh & Co., Oswego. 

Numerous lines are in constant operation, whose advertise- 
ments are to be found in the Albany papers. 



WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY, 



The traveller will take the Mohawk and Hudson Railroad 
from 115 State-street, and be whirled across "by steam," 
over a sandy and barren country, with nothing to attract or in- 
terest the eye, till he finds himself in the ancient city of 

Schenectady. According to tradition, this place seems 
to have been, long before the knowledge of it by Europeans, 
the headquarters of the Mohawks, a very numerous and pow- 
erful tribe, who could at one time muster 800 warriors. The 
city, consisting of 63 houses and a church, was totally burnt 
in the dead of night, 1690, by a party of French and Indians 
from Canada. Many of the inhabitants were massacred, some 
taken captive, and part fled to Albany, of whom a number 
lost their limbs, and all had wellnigh perished by the cold. 
Its present population is about 6000. This was a place of 
some considerable business, principally forwarding, a few- 
years since, when goods were carried across the turnpike to 
the batteaux on the Mohawk River ; and for a time after the 
canal went into operation, the business of Schenectady was 
nearly annihilated, but latterly it has greatly revived. 

The Schenectady and Saratoga Railroad here commences, 
from the construction of which the villages of Ballston Spa 
and Saratoga Springs derive almost incalculable advantages. 
The cost of the road, carriages, &c., was about $270,000. 

Union College was incorporated 1797, and is now in 
quite a prosperous condition. It occupies a very eligible sit- 
uation a short distance northeast of the city. JDr. Eliphalet 
Nott (inventor of the famed coal stove), who is a great me- 
chanical genius as well as a divine, is the president of the in- 
stitution. 

Before the completion of the railroad the traveller here re- 
sumed his tour upon the great Western Canal, the most stu- 
pendous chain of artificial navigation in this or any other 
country. In passing for hundreds of miles through rich and 
fertile tracts, and over obstacles which presented almost im- 
passable barriers to the great work of internal improvement, so 



36 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 

boldly planned and perseveringly completed by the foresight, 
wisdom, and indefatigable exertions of Clinton and his com- 
peers, the reflection will inevitably suggest itself, that the 
State of New-York has ample reason to indulge a feeling of 
pride in contemplating the beneficent results of the triumph- 
ant labours of those who planned and completed this monu- 
ment to her public spirit and enterprise. 

CANAL ROUTE.* 

The several places and distances, as they occur on the 
canal route from Albany to Buffalo, are as follows : 

8 DISTANCE FROM 

•a, ^ S 5 I 

Albany 110 270 363 

Troy 7 7 103 263 356 

Junction 2 9 101 261 334 

Schenectady 21 30 80 240 333 

Amsterdam 16 . 46 64 224 317 

Schoharie Creek 7 53 57 217 310 

Caughnawaga 4 57 63 213 306 

Spraker's Basin 9 66 44 204 297 

Canajoharie 3 69 41 201 294 

Bowman's Creek 3 72 38 198 291 

Little Falls 16 88 22 182 275 

Herkimer 7 95 15 175 268 

Frankfort 5 100 10 170 263 

Utica 10 110 160 253 

Whitesborough 4 114 4 156 249 

Oriskany 3 117 7 153 246 

Rome 8 125 15 145 238 

Smith's 7 132 22 138 231 

Loomis's 6 138 28 132 225 

Oneida Creek 3 141 31 129 222 

Canistota 5 146 36 124 217 

New-Boston 4 150 40 120 213 

Chitteningo 4 154 44 116 209 

Manlius 8 162 52 108 201 

Orville 3 165 65 105 198 

* For stage and railroad route, see page 86. 



WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 37 



§ DISTANCE FROM 

} ^ i ^ 

J I I I I 

Syracuse 6 171 61 99 192 

Geddes 2 173 63 97 190 

Nine Mile Creek 6 179 69 91 184 

Canton 6 185 75 85 178 

Jordan 6 191 81 79 172 

Weed's Basin 6 197 87 73 166 

Port Byron 3 200 90 70 163 

Montezuma (Lakeport) .... 6 206 96 64 157 

Clyde 11 217 107 53 146 

Lyons 9 226 116 44 157 

Newark 7 233 123 37 130 

Palmyra 8 241 131 29 122 

Fullom's Basin 13 254 144 16 109 

Pittsford 6 260 150 10 103 

Rochester 10 270 160 93 

Ogden 12 282 172 12 81 

Adam's Basin 3 285 175 15 78 

Brockport 5 290 180 20 73 

HoUey 5 295 185 25 68 

Newport 10 305 195 35 58 

PortviUe 4 309 199 39 54 

Oak Orchard 5 314 204 44 49 

Middleport 7 321 211 53 42 

Lockport 12 333 223 63 30 

Pendleton 7 340 230 70 23 

Tonnewanta 12 352 242 82 11 

Black Rock 8 360 250 90 3 

Buffalo 3 363 253 93 

D 



38 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 



TABLE OF ROADS 

FROM ALBANY TO BUFFALO. 

Inter- Total 
mediate. Distance 

Schenectady 15 15 

Amsterdam 15 30 

Caughnawaga . 10 40 

Palatine Bridge 12 52 

Little Falls 21 73 

Herkimer 7 80 

Utica 16 96 

Vernon . 15 111 

Manlius 25 136 

Onondaga 10 146 

Auburn 24 170 

Cayuga Bridge 9 179 

Geneva 13 192 

Canandaigua 16 208 

Batavia 48 256 

Buffalo 40 296 

From Buffalo to Niagara Falls 21 317 

" " " Lewiston 28 324 

From Canandaigua to 

Rochester 28 28 

Clarkson 18 46 

Lewiston ; . 60 106 

Niagara Falls 7 113 

From Utica to Sackett's Harbour .... 98 

« " «' Ogdensburgh 120 

* The Canal Packet-boats, by which the traveller to the west 
continues his journey from Schenectady, are about 80 feet in 
length and from 8 to 14 wide. A cabin in the forward part 
of the boat is fitted for ladies, with berths, in a similar style 
to those of the steamboats on the Hudson. The dining-cabin 
is about 35 feet in length. The gentlemen's berths are not 
stationary, but are hung up in the dining-cabin at bedtime 

* Tliis description will apply to the boats from Syracuse to Oswego. 



WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 3^ 

by means of hooks fitted for the purpose. Back of the dining- 
cabin is the kitchen and sleeping-cabin for the hands. 

After leaving Schenectady, the boat passes through the 
town of Rotterdam, a most delightful tract of country, to 
the first lock, which will prove an interesting sight to those 
unacquainted with the business of canal navigation. The 
lower gates are opened, the boat runs in, the gates are closed, 
and the upper floodgates opened. As an equilibrium takes 
place between the high water above the lock and that in the 
lock, the boat rises gradually about 8 feet, to the level of the 
water above. The acclivity being thus surmounted, the upper 
gates are opened, and the boat moves on uninterruptedly. 
The distance from Schenectady to Utica is 80 miles, and the 
passage is performed in from 18 to 20 hours. The boats are 
drawn by three horses ahead of each other. The horses are 
changed about every 10 miles. The packet-boats have been 
so much aflfected by the railroads as to be forced to withdraw. 
A new line has, however, formed to take the night travel, at 
an increased speed. On several canals, both in Scotland and 
England, the packet-boats constantly average from 8 to 9 miles 
an hour. The horses are fatigued even on short routes, but 
the canal banks are not injured. (See Sir George Head's 
Tour.) Could the system be adopted on the Erie Canal, the 
railroads would have a formidable competition. After pro- 
ceeding 15 miles, the tourist has a view of the village of 

Amsterdam, on the opposite side of the Mohawk River, 
which contains about 100 houses, and is destined to become 
a place of some importance from the manufacturing facilities 
afforded it by falls in a creek near it. A very fine bridge 
crosses the river at this place. A few miles farther is seen 
the stone house formerly the residence of Guy Johnson, and 
more recently of the celebrated lawyer John V. Henry, Esq. 

Schoharie Creek. The canal crosses this creek by means 
of a guardlock on each side, the gates of which are closed 
when the water is higher in the creek than the level of the 
canal, in order to prevent it from rushing into the canal and 
tearing away the embankments. The ruins of Fort Hunter 
are to be seen near the mouth of the creek. The Indian 
Church called Queen Anne's Chapel formerly stood on the 
spot where the eastern guardlock now is. The flats on the 
banks of this creek extend for many miles southerly, and ard 
celebrated for their fertility. 



40 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 

FuLTONviLLE, 27 miles from Schenectady. A stage leaves 
here for Saratoga Springs daily, except on Sunday, Caugh- 
nawaga is directly across the river. 

Anthony^s Nose, on the south side of the canal, is one of 
the most prominent mountains on the whole line. A cave 
called. Mitchell's Cave is an object of curiosity at this point, 
discovered in 1821, and containing 13 or 14 apartments. 

Canajoharie (which signifies, in the Indian tongue, Boil- 
ing Pot), 38 miles from Schenectady. The canal runs 
through the northern section of this village, and a bridge 
crosses the river to Palatine. This will be the terminating 
point of the projected Catskill and Canajoharie Railroad. 

Fort Plain village is 3 miles above Canajoharie. A large 
creek empties into the Mohawk at this place. The canal 
crosses the creek by means of guardlocks. This place is 
rapidly increasing, and receives great support from the trade 
of Otsego county. 

Little Falls, 22 miles from Utica. These are rapids 
rather than falls. On each side the mountains are very high, 
leaving but a narrow space for the river, canal, and road to 
pass through. For about two miles the canal is formed by 
throwing up a wall into the river from 20 to 30 feet high, 
then excavating into the mountain and filling it up. This was 
one of the most difficult and expensive parts of the canal, as 
it was necessary to blast the rock with gunpowder to form the 
bed of the canal for nearly the whole distance. A beautiful 
marble aqueduct crosses the river at this place, and leads into 
a basin opposite, where boats discharge and receive ladmg. 
The aqueduct has an elliptical arch of 70 feet, embracing the 
whole stream, except in time of freshets, and one on each 
side of 50 feet span. It is elevated about 25 feet above the 
surface of the river, " a foaming torrent, dashing over the bare 
rocks in a fearful and subUme style." There is a bridge just 
above, from which you have a fine view of the aqueduct, and 
the slab on which is engraved the names of the canal commis- 
sioners, the builders, &c. There are a number of fine buildings 
in the village on the opposite side of the river, principally of 
stone. Passengers disposed to pedestrianism generally leave 
the boat at the second lock, and walk until they reach the last. 
They are six in number, by which the boat is so much de- 
tained that a person may walk quite leisurely through the 
most wild and romantic scenery that can easily be imagined* 



WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 41 

A stage runs from this place to Trenton Falls every Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday, at half past 8 A. M., distance 24 
miles. After leaving Little Falls, you pass through a most 
delightful plain, called German Flats, for 7 miles. The rocks 
are gneiss, the hills half a mile apart from summit to summit, 
and attain an elevation of 300 feet. It was supposed by the 
celebrated De Witt Clinton that the Little Falls were once 
the boundary of a vast lake. A dam across at the falls hill 
of 50 feet height above the stream, would throw the water 
back all over the country as far as Oneida Lake. The country 
all the way from Albany to Utica is transition ; at this point 
a spur of the northern primitive mountains comes out, as it 
does at the Nose below. Crystals found in these hills are 
offered for sale by the children in the neighbourhood. 

Herkimer is seen on the opposite side of the river. There 
is an island in the river at this place, from which a bridge 
leads to either shore. This village is situated on a plain of 
alluvial, and celebrated as the residence of a brave general of 
the same name, who was killed at the battle of Oriskany. Pro- 
ceeding 5 miles farther, the canal passes tluough the village of 

Frankfort. Thence the traveller pmrsues his journey 10 
miles, and finds himself in the beautiful and flourishing city 
of Utica. 

Utica is located on the site of old Fort Schuyler, on the 
south bank of the Mohawk River, 96 miles west of Albany. 
It received a city charter in 1832. A charter was granted to 
this village in 1798, since which time its population has in- 
creased very rapidly. In 1813 it contained 1700 inhabitants ; 
by the census of July, 1830, it contained 8324 souls, 4338 
males, and 3986 females ; and the present population is esti- 
mated at about 10,000. Among the public institutions are 
the following : the Oneida Institute of Science and Indus- 
try, which has a large farm attached to the institution, on which 
each student labours from three to four hours each day ; the 
Classical Academy, a Library, the Lyceum, Museum, two 
banks, and nine churches. Very pleasant excursions are fre- 
quently made from this place to Whitesborough, York Mills, 
Clinton Village (containing Hamilton College), Rome, and to 
the wild, picturesque, and romantic Trenton Falls. Stages 
leave Utica every day for Watertown, Sacket''s Harbour, Og- 
densburgh, and Oswego ; they also leave in all directions oa 
tke arrival of the packet-boats from the east and west ; stages 
D2 



42 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 

leave for Trenton Falls four times a day during the summer 
months ; packets leave for Schenectady every morning. The 
cars for Albany leave three times a day. (See Railroads.) 

Trenton Falls, 13 miles north from Uiica, constitute an 
object of curiosity and admiration to which the traveller is ir- 
resistibly attracted. It does not comport with the design of 
this work to enter into a detailed description of these falls ; 
merely to call attention to them fulfils our design. They are 
on the West Canada Creek, a large stream which empties 
into the Mohawk, and about 24 miles above its mouth. They 
consist of several chutes, commencing near the Black River 
Road, and terminating at Conrad's Mills, a distance of more 
than 2 miles. The Upper Fall is 18 or 20 feet, but the pre- 
vious descent of the water in the two miles above is supposed 
to be 60 feet. The water at this first fall is received into a 
large basin, and winds its way downward through a precipi- 
tous ravine 100 feet in depth, and on the summit of its banks 
200 feet across. This ravine presents some of the most ro- 
mantic peculiarities. In many places the topmost crags over- 
hang the stream, and some hardy trees, rooted in the crevices 
of the rock, throw their branches athwart the abyss. There 
are six distinct falls. The one we have already noticed, which 
is above the bridge on the Black River Road. The next con- 
sists of two pitches, and is known as " The Cascades,'''' where 
the water is compressed into a very narrow space, and falls 18 
feet. At the Milldam Falls, next in succession, the descent 
is 14 feet. A short distance below is the High Falls, con- 
sisting of three pitches, the first of which is 48 feet, the second 
11 feet, and the third 37 feet; the three, including the inter- 
vening slopes and pitches, constituting a descent of 109 feet. 
The fifth is called Sherman's Falls, about 70 rods below the 
High Falls, and the descent is about 35 feet. The last fall 
is at Conrad''s Mills, and is 6 feet. The whole descent, 
from the top of the Upper Fall to the foot of that at Conrad's 
Mills, is 387 feet. When the water is high, many of the dis- 
tinct pitches are lost in the rushing cataract ; and it is only 
when the stream is low that each fall can be separately seen. 
A stairway is formed at the bottom of the ravine, by means of 
which a view is obtained of Sherman's Falls, and whence the 
visiter passes up within the ravine, under overarching rocks, 
to the foot of the High Fall. The whole forms a stupendous 
scene ; and those feelings of awe wliich the wilder works of 



WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 43 

nature impress upon the mind are powerfully excited. Or- 
ganic remains have hitherto been found in abundance in the 
ravine, and a cabinet of these remains is exhibited to the cu- 
rious. 

The Line Boats\ea\e almost hourly for Rochester and Buf- 
falo, and carry large numbers of emigrants bound for the far 
West. Since the completion of the railroad in 1839, the 
Packet-boats have withdrawn between here and Syracuse. 
Intersecting lines will be found at Montezuma to convey pas- 
sengers either to Geneva or Cayuga bridge. 

Rome is 15 miles northwest from Utica, and is the point 
where the Black River Canal will join the Erie Canal. Stages 
leave here daily for Oswego. The boat passes through the 
following villages on the passage to Rochester : Whilesbor- 
ough, Rome, New- London, Canistota, Neiv-Boston, Chit- 
tenango. Manlius, Syracuse, Canton, Jordan, Montezuma, 
Clyde, Lyons, Newark, Palmyra, and arrives at Rochester in 
time for the morning boat for Buffalo. There is nothing of much 
interest on the canal for the first sixty miles west of Utica. 
It is a perfectly level and marshy country, without a lock in 
the whole distance. Those disposed to pass a quiet night will 
take the canal to Syracuse. If the boats are not crowded, it 
is the best method of travelling this distance. 

Syracuse is the most important place between Utica and 
Rochester, and contains about 800 buildings ; among which 
are four churches, two very extensive hotels, one on each side 
of the canal, which is lined with lofty warehouses, giving it 
the appearance of New- York in miniature.* The importance 
of this flourishing village is principally owing to the immense 
quantity of salt produced in the- vicinity. Great quantities 
are manufactured from the vast number of springs by which 
the whole body of the soil is impregnated. The salt is manu- 
factured by solar evaporation. The water is brought in logs 
from the village of Salina, about one mile and a half distant, 
and emptied into the vats, which occupy nearly 300 acres. 
The vats are all covered with light roofs, which are moveable 
at pleasure, to admit the rays of the sun upon the water, or 
to prevent the rain from mingling with it. The salt is re- 
moved from the vats twice or three times in the course 



* There was a great fire here in the spring of 1834. Damage one hun- 
dred thousand dollars. 



44 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 

of the summer. The state has yet on sale lots with privi- 
leges of manufacturing salt. 

Parties visiting Niagara frequently take the canal from this 
place to Oswego, 38 miles northward ; proceed by steamboat 
on Lake Ontario to Lewiston, whence a railroad ride of seven 
miles takes them to the Falls. This is a delightful route in 
warm weather. 

There is a line of fine packet-boats on this route. The 
scenery is very interesting ; and during the last season it re- 
ceived a great portion of the fashionable northern and western 
travel. 

The Oswego Canal extends from Onondaga Lake to Lake 
Ontario at Oswego. It includes 20 miles of the Oswego 
River. The whole distance is 38 miles. Nothing can be 
finer than the approach to Oswego in the evening from the 
south. 

Salina is a mile and a half north of Syracuse. The first 
salt-spring was discovered at this place by the Indians, from 
the circumstance of its being visited by deer and other animals. 
The Osivego Canal commences at this place, the surplus water 
of which is used for the purpose of forcing (by a powerful hy- 
draulion) the salt water 85 feet up the hill into a large reser- 
voir. It is forced up at the rate of 300 gallons per minute, 
whence it is conveyed by logs to the factories in the neigh- 
bourhood, which amount to 175 within a circuit of seven miles. 
The springs and works all belong to the state, to which the 
manufacturers pay imposts of 30 cents per barrel of 5 bushels, 
which are applied, according to the constitution of the state, 
towards discharging the canal debt. A small steamboat for- 
merly plied from Salina to Baldwinsville. 

Geddes is a small village 2 miles west of Syracuse. A 
number of valuable salt-springs have been discovered at this 
place very recently. The manufacturing estabUshments are 
within a few rods of the canal. After pursuing its course 7 
miles farther, the canal crosses Nine Mile Creek by means of 
an aqueduct with two arches, under which the creek flows. 

Weed's Basin, 15 miles from Syracuse, contains about 80 
houses, and is improving. 

Auburn is 7 miles south of Weed's Basin, for which place 
stages leave daily. 

The State Prison is located at Auburn, on the banks of the 
Owasco Creek. The machinery of the prison is propelled by 
the water from this creek. 



WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 45 

Montezuma is a flourishing village. There is a salt man- 
ufacturing establishment one mile north of it, to which a side- 
cut from the canal affords means of communication. Passen- 
gers intending to visit Ithaca land here. 

Ithaca. This is a beautiful village, situate at the head of 
Cayuga Lake. Founded by the late surveyor-general at 
an early day. In 1810 it had 400 inhabitants ; it has now 
over 5000. It contains several churches, manufactories, an 
academy, and literary societies ; several newspaper and book 
establishments, an immense hotel called the Clinton Hous^, 
with several others, and is surrounded with the most splendid 
scenery. It is situated on a flat of great extent, through which 
the Cayuga Inlet passes on the western side of the village. It 
has some fine mills and manufactories, and immense water- 
powers yet unemployed. 

This place has a very extensive commerce with New- York 
and Pennsylvania. It is said that one tenth of the tolls paid 
upon the canal at Montezuma for produce going east is paid 
by the traders of Ithaca and its vicinity. A railroad to Owego, 
made at the expense of a few enterprising gentlemen of Albany 
and New-York, is now in operation, though not entirely com- 
pleted for the use of locomotives. The state has granted it 
$300,000 in order to complete it. 

To tourists, its great attraction consists in its scenery, and 
for this reason we give it so partic\ilar a notice. During the 
last season a great many persons visited it, and were aston- 
ished at what they saw. The following is a brief description 
of the Falls at and near Ithaca. 

The falls of Fall River are near the village, and are seen 
on entering the village from the steamboat landing. Its 
height is 116 feet, with a proportionate breadth. Two im- 
mense piles of rocks enclose the stream ; and on the right- 
hand, high up the bank, a millrace is seen winding round a 
point of the bank, suspended in mid-air, and now and then an 
adventurous visiter carefully treading his way along the dizzy 
path. This raceway was built in an extraordinary manner : 
A person let himself down from a tree standing on a high 
point above, and, swinging over the giddy steep, he there dug 
out places in the rock in which to fasten the principal sup- 
porters of the race. The view from this point is grand and 
impressive. A short distance from this, up the rocky bed of 
the creek, the visiter proceeds until his steps are arrested by 



46 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 

another splendid fall ; the bank presenting the most cunous 
forms and the most surprising strata. The fall is beautiful ; 
it is not so high as the preceding, but it is more wild ; the 
water pours over in large sheets, commencing, as it were, 
from the topmost ledge, and then spreading out widely and 
boldly below. The basin into which the water falls is also 
very picturesque. 

The raceway has gone to ruin, and, instead, a tunnel has 
been excavated by some enterprising inhabitants, which is 
quite a curiosity. The whole fall of Fall River within the dis- 
tance of 1 mile is 438 feet ! 

There are some beautiful falls on the Cascadilla, though 
the effect of two of them has been destroyed by a high mill- 
dam thrown across the bed of the stream. 

On the Six Mile Creek and on the Buttermilk Creek there 
are also a great number of beautiful and romantic falls, all 
worthy of particular notice, and equal to anything in this 
country. These are all at the village. 

On the Five Mile Creek, which is a few miles south from 
Ithaca, is one of the most splendid falls of water ever beheld. 
It is impossible to describe its majestic character. 

The fall known as the Taghcanic is 262 feet perpendicular, 
and terminates in a majestic ravine. As the steamboat 
touches twice a day at Goodwin's Point, from whence the ex- 
cursion to the fall is made, and the road from Ithaca is good, 
tourists may easily transport themselves to the place ; and, 
when there, they will indeed be transported. 

The ravine is ascended for about a quarter of a mile, and 
then the eye is amazed with a fall of water of 262 feet in per- 
pendicular height, a breadth of 60 feet, and banks of rock 360 
feet high. The stream of water varies in quantity, though it 
is always a full stream. 

There is fine fishing and shooting during the season about 
Ithaca. 

The lake is a lovely sheet of water, 40 miles long, and from 
1 to 4 miles wide. Several neat villages are situated on its 
banks, and its surface is often white with sails. Travellers 
who wish to embrace the pleasures of this excursion will find 
the following routes decidedly the best : 

From New- York via Newburgh, to Ithaca, 2 days. 
" " " Catskill, " " 2 '« 

" " " Utica and Auburn 3 '» 

" " " Montezuma and canal 4 '« 



WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 47 

The steamboat De Witt Clinton, low pressure, with elegant 
accommodations, and making the passage in from four to five 
hours, including ten landings, leaves the bridge, East Cayuga, 
every day. 

The present and former boats were built by two gentlemen 
of Albany, who expended out of their private fortunes more 
than S 100,000 for the benefit of this village, in the construc- 
tion of steamboats and railroads, for which they have as yet 
received neither remuneration nor the gratitude of those ben- 
efited. The inhabitants themselves never risked any amount 
in these public works. 

One mile from Montezuma the canal enters the Montezu- 
ma Marsh, 3 miles in extent, which is a most solitary, deso- 
late, and dreary swamp. After leaving the marsh and trav- 
elling 8 miles, the traveller passes the flourishing vjUage of 

Clyde, which contains a glass-blowing establishment. 

A great project is now silently but certainly going on to 
completion in this vicinity, to connect Cayuga Lake and So- 
dus Bay by means of a ship canal. Great natural facilities 
are afforded for this work, and an immense water-power will 
be developed at the termination of the canal at the bay. A 
more lovely and beautiful sheet of water, a better harbour, and 
a more delightful situation for a town and for country resi- 
dences, are not to be found in the United States. A powerful 
rival to other ports on Lake Ontario will inevitably arise at 
this place. 

Palmyra is a handsome, business-looking village in Wayne 
county. It is built on the southern side of the canal. There 
are a number of factories and mills in the vicinity, situated on 
Mud Creek, which runs eastward about 40 rods from the main 
street. Passengers and goods destined for Canandaigua land 
at this place. 

Fullom's Basin, 13 miles from Palmyra. The distance 
by canal to Rochester is 16 miles, and by land only 7^ ; in 
consequence of which, passengers frequently take stages from 
this place ; by doing this, however, the view of the Great Eni' 
bankment is lost. The embankment commences about 4 miles 
from Fullom's Basin, and extends 2 miles, at an elevation of 
about 70 feet, from which there is a fine prospect of the sur- 
rounding country. 

PiTTsFORD, containing about 100 buildings, is 2 miles far- 
ther. After proceeding 10 miles from Pittsford, the boat ar- 
rives at the large and prosperous city of 



48 WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 

Rochester^ the most extensive, populous, and important 
place in the western country. The legislature granted a city 
charter in the session of 1834. It has been termed the 
" Western New- York." The Genesee River passes through 
the city, and the Great Falls, 97 feet in height, are about 80 
rods below. From the centre of these falls the celebrated 
Sam Patch, of immortal memory, made his " last jump" in 
the autumn of 1829. He precipitated himself from a scaffold 
erected 25 feet above Table Rock, making an elevation of 125 
feet. An immense number of persons had collected from 
many miles distant to behold this last, and, as it proved, fatal 
leap. His body was not found until the ensuing spring. In 
1812 Rochester was a wilderness ; and, in the short space of 
twenty- six years, its growth has been unprecedented, as will 
be perceived by a shght glance at its present statistics. It 
contains 2000 buildings, and a population of 18,000. In the 
south part of the city the canal runs parallel with the eastern 
bank of the river for half a mile, and at but a short distance. 
At the centre of the city it crosses the river by a splendid 
aqueduct, 804 feet long, with 1 1 arches of from 26 to 50 feet 
chord, elevated 14 feet from the surface of the river. It is 
constructed of red freestone, and cost over $80,000. A new 
and more permanent one is in a state of forwardness. The 
height of the canal at Rochester is 501 feet above the tide 
waters of the Hudson, and 64 feet below Lake Erie. There 
are two bridges across the river. The principal hotels are, 
the Eagle Tavern, Rochester House, Mansion House, Arcade 
House, and Clinton House. The principal public buildings 
are the courthouse, jail, twelve churches, and two banks, viz., 
Bank of Rochester and Bank of Monroe. In the vicinity of 
the city there are eleven flouring-mills, with fifty-three run of 
stones, capable of grinding 12,000 bushels of wheat every 
24 hours. 

The Arcade was erected in 1829. It is 100 feet front by 
135 deep, and four stories high, exclusive of the attic and 
basement. There are six stores in front, besides a large hall, 
which leads to the Arcade, where the Atheneum, Postoffice, 
Arcade House, and a variety of offices are situated. An Ob- 
servatory, in the form of a Chinese pagoda, is erected on the 
top, from which the visiter may obtain a magnificent view of 
the country. 

The population on the east side is rapidly^approximating to 



WESTERN ROUTE FROM ALBANY. 49 

that on the west side, and some fine avenues and public build- 
ings already attest its prosperity. A railroad runs to the land- 
ing, where the numerous and well-provided steamboats touch 
on their trips across Ontario. The daily line of steamboats 
between Niagara and Oswego only touch at the mouth of the 
Genesee River. Travellers will always find placards at the 
principal hotels giving information as to the time of the arrival 
and departure of the various lake steamers.* 

Stages leave Rochester daily for Albany via Canandaigua, 
Geneva, Auburn, Onondaga, Utica, Little Falls, and Sche- 
nectady, distance 237 miles. They also leave daily for Buf- 
falo, via Lewiston and Niagara Falls, passing over the ridge- 
road, distance 104 miles ; and via Caledonia, Leroy, and Ba- 
tavia for Buffalo, distance 77 miles. 

Packet-boats leave Rochester daily for BuflTalo and Syra- 
cuse. After leaving Rochester in the boat for Buffalo, and 
passing a number of small places, the traveller arrives at the 
thriving village of 

Brockport. This is a pretty village, the buildings and 
grounds of its inhabitants displaying much taste. It chiefly 
owes its origin to, and derives its name from, the enterprising 
Hiel Brockway, Esq. 

Oak Orchard, 44 miles from Rochester. It is located on 
the bank of a creek of the same name. The largest arch on 
the whole line of canal is at this place, over which the canal 
crosses the creek. Travellers wishing to see this " work of 
man" must leave the boat a short time before reaching it, as 
no stop is made, and walk rapidly forward in order to gain 
time ; and they will be taken on board at the village when 
the boat passes. There is a passage to the bottom of the arch 
by means of circular steps, and a path underneath, which leads 
to the village. 19 miles farther is the flourishing village of 

LocKPORT. It is situated on the mountain ridge; and 
there are here five double locks of 12 feet lift each, situated a 
few yards below the village. These locks are constructed in 
the most permanent manner, and the science and solidity dis- 
played by them has often been spoken of with admiration. 
There are stone steps between the rows of locks, guarded on 

* We would advise travellers to depend more on newspaper advertise- 
ments in relation to these boats llian the assertions of individuals, whose 
interest may not prompt them to be over- scrupulous in regard to giving 
correct information. 

E 



50 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 

each side with iron railings. This is the most stupendous 
work on the whole route. Above the locks the canal is cut 
through solid rock to the depth of 20 feet for the distance of 
3 miles. In 1821 there were but 2 houses at this place ; now 
there are nearly 400, and nearly 2000 inhabitants. Pas- 
sengers who intend visiting the Niagara Falls frequently 
take stage here, and proceed to Manchester (the American 
Fall), 23 miles distant, or to Lewiston, which is 7 miles below 
the Falls, and visit Manchester afterv/ard. After passing 
Lockport 7 miles, the boat arrives at Tonnewanta Creek, 
which forms the canal for 12 miles to its mouth. The dam 
here is 4 feet 6 inches high. Hence the canal is carried along 
the shore of the Niagara River for 8 miles to the village of 

Black Rock, which is on the west bank of the river, and 
is a place of considerable size, containing 700 inhabitants. 
The former activity of this village has recently much dimin- 
ished, as Buffalo has overgrown it, and attracted most of the 
business once transacted here. The large mansion of Gen- 
eral Peter B. Porter, late secretary of war (who resides here), 
makes quite a fine appearance from the water. From Black 
Rock the canal runs along the bank of the river 3 miles to 
Buffalo. 

Buffalo is a beautiful, flourishing city, at the outlet of 
Lake Erie, possessing the twofold advantages of a lake and 
canal navigation. The time is not far distant when it will 
rank with and rival any of the Atlantic cities. As a point for 
the concourse of strangers and voyagers passing to and fro 
for pleasure or business, Buffalo, in the summer season, pre- 
sents a singularly busy and active scene. The daily ingress 
and egress of such persons by canals, stages, and steamboats, 
would seem incredible for a place of its size, as much for va- 
riety of their origin and destination as for their numbers. All 
the world in variety seem to be passing here. Besides the 
busy hum and animating effect of business, the love of nature 
and of pleasure will ever keep their swarming devotees hover- 
ing over such a stupendous and attractive object as Niagara's 
everlasting cataract. Buffalo seems to be the principal place 
of repose in approaching to and receding from this scene. 

The commerce of Lake Erie has increased within the last 
seven years beyond all precedent. Then there wenefive steam- 
boats, and from twenty to twenty- five other vessels in opera- 
tion. Last season, upward of 60 steamboats and 165 schoon- 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 51 

ers were employed ; and now 40 steamboats and about 200 
sailing crait are engaged in the carrying- trade between Buffa- 
lo and Detroit and the upper lakes. 

Sixteen new steamboats have been built during the last 
winter, to swell the number already afloat on Lake Erie. Two 
beautiful ships, and some brigs that formed a part of the hos- 
tile squadron during the last war, have been raised from their 
watery beds, and are now engaged in commerce. The beau- 
tiful mole and lighthouse, the superb entrance to the port, the 
constant arrival and departure of richly-freighted vessels, give 
to Buffalo an importance that can not so well be described as 
perceived. Large fortunes have been made in the freighting 
business and in the transportation of passengers at this place ; 
and public anticipation has so far outstripped its former calcu- 
lations, that property rose in 1835 and 1836 to very high 
prices. Those who were able to hold on will realize their 
most sanguine expectations. Nothing can effectually retard 
the greatness of this city. It already contains, in the business 
seasons, nearly 20,000 inhabitants. 

The hotels at this place are of the first class. The Ameri- 
can is not surpassed by anything in the United States. An 
elegant table, superb furniture, and extensive ranges of par- 
lours and bedrooms, place it in the first rank. Steamboats and 
packet-boats leave here twice every day for the East and 
West, and for all the ports on Lake Erie. A railroad to the 
Falls, Lewiston, and Lockport, give every required facility. 
All information desired by the tourist will be found on the 
numerous cards hung up in the public houses of Buffalo. 

The city contains about 2500 buildings. More than 400 
were erected during the year 1833. In 1830 the population 
was between 6 and 7000. There are several splendid churches, 
a courthouse, theatre, museum, and some fine hotels. 

Stages leave Buffalo every morning for Batavia, thence by 
railroad to Rochester, stage to Auburn, and railroad again 
thence to Albany. Every morning at 8 o'clock for Niagara 
Falls on the Canada side, passing through Black Rock, crosses 
the river to Waterloo, passes over the Chippewa battle-ground, 
through Chippewa village to Niagara Falls; distance 22 miles. 

Steamboats leave Buffalo every morning at 8 o'clock for 
Chippewa village (passing round Grand Island*), and reach 

* Grand Island is 12 miles long, and from 2 to 7 broad, and contains 



53 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 

there about noon. Stages are in readiness at this place to 
convey passengers to the Falls. 

After satisfying the wonder and curiosity naturally excited 
by the splendour and promise of this City of the West, the 
tourist, if he wishes to visit Niagara Falls, will either cross 
from Black Rock to the village of Waterloo on the British side, 
or take the railroad to Manchester on the American side of 
the river. The latter is the most expeditious mode. A new 
steamboat built the last season also plies to Chippewa. To 
view the battle-grounds the traveller will cross to the British 
side opposite Black Rock. Waterloo contains the site of Fort 
Erie, standing but 15 feet above the level of the river. Prior 
to the war it was but a slight structure. After the capture 
of Fort George in 1813 by the Americans, it was abandoned 
by the British, and occupied by a corps of Dearborn's army. 
It was reoccupied the same year by the British. On the 3d 
July, 1814, it surrendered almost without resistance to Gen- 
eral Brown. General Drummond undertook to carry it by a 
regular siege. On the memorable 15th of August, he at- 
tempted to storm it in three columns, the right led by Colonel 
Fischer, the centre by Colonel Drummond, and the left by 
Colonel Scott. The night was dark and stormy. Fischer's 
column advanced cautiously on the right battery, bayonets 
fixed, and scaling ladders ready, but he was met by the Ameri- 
cans under the gallant Wood, who, after a desperate tight, 
drove off the assailants. A second attempt having also been 
repulsed, the determined foe attempted to turn the flank by 
passing the point of the abattis, to do which required the as- 
sailants to wade breast high in the waters of the lake. A 
deadly conflict at this point, which cost the lives of nearly two 
hundred of the column, terminated in its utter dispersion and 
defeat. Colonels Drummond and Scott were no less re- 
solved to conquer. Twice they were repulsed in their as- 
saults ; but at length, having gained possession of the bastion 
where Captain Williams, Lieutenants M'Donough and W^at- 
mough were stationed, for a time the battle seemed doubtful. 
Lieutenant M'Donough, being badly wounded, demanded 

about 48,000 acres of well-timbered land. A company from Boston have 
purchased it, and erected sawing-mills. They take up the trees entire, 
and saw frames of vessels to order for the Atlantic cities. Indeed, they 
have already sent several to the Boston market. An attempt was made 
in 1825 to establish a Jewish colony on this island, but it failed. 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 53 

quarter of Colonel Drummond, who refused it and shot him 
down. The latter, however, was himself killed while crying 
out, " Give no quarter." By a determined effort, the bastion 
was at last recovered by the Americans, and the enemy was 
entirely defeated and driven from the field. Their loss was 
900, that of the Americans but 84. 

Disappointed in this attempt. General Drummond thence 
undertook to surround the fort, and compel it to surrender at 
discretion. An advanced hne of batteries from the river to 
the lake, at 500 yards' distance from the fort, was formed, 
while the reserve lay at a distance beyond the reach of its fire. 

General Brown, who now succeeded the gallant Gaines in 
command, feeling uneasy at this position of aflfairs, planned a 
sortie, which took place on the 17th of September, and was 
one of the most brilliant feats of the whole war. The troops 
were led out in two divisions, under Colonels Wood and Gib- 
son, and though these brave men fell in the conflict, the ex- 
pedition was crowned with success. Three batteries, two 
blockhouses, and the intervening line of intrenchments were 
destroyed, and tliree hundred and eighty prisoners were cap- 
tured. Forty-seven days' labour of the enemy was thus ren- 
dered useless. This action was of a new character so far as 
the Americans were concerned, and was considered a very 
gallant one. The result of the affair was the retreat of Gen- 
eral Drummond a few days afterward down the river. On 
the approach of winter the fort was dismantled, and the 
troops went into winter quarters on the American side. We 
are thus particular in our narrative, because, in the splendour of 
the victories of Bridgewater and Chippewa, the sortie from 
Fort Erie is too often forgotten. 

After passing 15 miles farther, over a sandy though very 
good road, the tourist arrives at Chippewa battle-ground. The 
battle of Chippewa, probably one of the most brilliant actions 
recorded in the annals of war, was fought on the 5th of July, 
1814 (on the plain south of the creek), between the British 
forces under General Riall, and the American under Generals 
Brown, Scott, Ripley, and Porter. At this battle the forces 
on each side were equal. The attack was commenced by a 
division of the enemy under General Riall. General Porter, 
at the head of a column of volunteers, met them, and, after a 
brief but severe contest, drove them from the field. As he 
pressed on he was intercepted by the whole of the enemy's 
E 2 



54 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 

column in order of battle, and here the volunteers fought des- 
perately, until they were overpowered by superior discipline 
and numbers. 

From the heaviness and regularity of the firing, General 
Brown, suspecting the British regulars were all engaged, or- 
dered Scott's brigade and Towson's artillery to advance, and 
draw them into action on the plains. Scott had no sooner 
crossed the bridge at Street's Creek, than he encountered and 
gave battle to the enemy. Captain Towson had previously 
commenced his fire while the infantry was in array, and, when 
they were ready, took post with three pieces on the river on 
the extreme right, commencing a spirited fire on the opposing 
batteries. The ardour of Scott's brigade, partaking of the 
spirit of its leader, pressed on resistlessly, when the enemy 
broke and finally fled behind their batteries at Chippewa. 
General Brown drew off his victorious forces, covered with 
honour for their successful encounter of the veterans of the 
peninsula. One mile north of the battle-ground the traveller 
notices a small cluster of buildings ; this is the village of 
Chippewa, situated on both sides of the creek, a sluggish 
stream forty miles in extent, and used as a feeder for the 
Welland Canal. There are several mills in the vicinity. 

Lundy's Lane is 1 mile farther north, the scene of another 
battle, which commenced at six o'clock in the evening of the 
25th of July, 1814. Both parties claimed the victory, with 
what justice the following circumstances will show. 

General Scott, with his brigade, which he had personally 
brought to the highest state of discipline, suddenly found him- 
self in presence of the ^nemy, and, though inferior in numbers, 
boldly advanced to the attack. While engaged under this dis- 
parity of numbers, disputing every inch of ground, General 
Brown came up with a re-enforcement. The enemy's artillery 
planted on a commanding eminence, now crowned with the 
graves of the glorious dead, became so annoying, that Colonel 
Miller was asked if he would attempt to carry the position. " I 
will try," was the laconic answer. At double quick time he 
advanced with his regiment, delivered a destructive fire at a 
few paces, and then rushed on the enemy with fixed bayonets, 
who gave way and retreated to the bottom of the hill. For want 
of horses only one piece was brought off. The enemy were 
pursued in their retreat for some distance, and the Americans 
commenced securing their prisoners and taking care of the 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 55 

wounded. While thus engaged, General Drummond came up 
with a re-enforcement of troops just arrived from Kingston, 
and recommenced the attack. A short engagement of twenty 
minutes ended in the repulse of the British army. General 
Brown retired from the field at ] 2 o'clock at night, in good 
order, to his own camp, bringing off his prisoners and wound- 
ed. Nothmg but the want of horses prevented him from car- 
rying off all the captured artillery. This battle, won from 
the veterans of Wellington, established the character of the 
American troops for coolness, bravery, and physical endu- 
rance. 

Burning Spring is half a mile north of Lundy's Lane. 
The spring is enclosed by a small building. A barrel is placed 
over the spring, which has a cover with a tube in it, through 
which the gas (sulphuretted hydrogen) escapes : when a light is 
applied it ignites and burns brilliantly. The keeper of the 
spring requires a small fee from visiters. Half a mile north 
of this spring are the celebrated 

Niagara Falls. These falls are situated below Grand 
Island, on the Niagara River, about 20 miles from Lake Erie, 
and 14 miles from Lake Ontario. This river unites the waters 
of these two lakes, and is from 1^ to 6 miles wide. Above 
the falls the banks are from 4 to 100 feet in height, and im- 
mediately below not less than 300, at which height they con- 
tinue as far as Lewiston, where they suddenly fall ofl" to 
about 20 feet. The river at the falls is about one mile in width ; 
the cataract pours over a concave summit, and falls (on the 
American side) almost perpendicularly 164 feet. The Horse- 
shoe Fall (on the Canada side) descends in a curved form, 
projecting about 50 feet from its base, to the distance of 158 
feet. The descent of the rapids above the falls about 58 feet, 
making the whole height over 200 feet. Table Rock, which 
projects about 50 feet, is generally considered the most eligi- 
ble place for viewing the falls on the Canada side. The de- 
scent from the rock is by circular steps, which are enclosed ; 
at the foot of these stairs commences the passage under the 
great sheet of water, where visitants are supplied with dresses 
and a guide. The farthest approachable distance is Termi' 
nation Rock, 153 feet from Table Rock. 

An English writer, in speaking of this passage, says, " We 
reached a spot 153 feet from the outside or entrance by the 
assistance of a guide, who makes a handsome livelihood by 



56 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 

this amphibious pilotage. There was a tolerably good, green 
sort of light within this singular cavern ; but the wind blew 
at first in one direction, then in another, with such alarming 
violence, that I thought at first we should be fairly carried off 
our feet and jerked into the roaring caldron beneath. This 
tempest, however, was not nearly so great an inconvenience 
as the unceasing deluges of water driven against us. Fortu- 
nately, the direction of this gale of wind was always more or 
less upward, from the pool below, right against the face of 
the cliflTs ; were it otherwise, I fancy it would be impossible 
to go behind the falls with any chance of coming out again. 
Even now there is a great appearance of hazard in the expe- 
dition, though experience shows that there is no real danger. 
Indeed, the guide, to reassure us, and to prove the difficulty 
of the descent, actually leaped downward to the distance of 
five or six yards from the top of the bank of rubbish at the 
base of the cliff along which the path is formed. The gusts 
of wind rising out of the basin or pool below blew so violent- 
ly against him that he easily regained the walk." 

The cataract of Niagara, the grandest spectacle in the 
world, suddenly bursting upon the sight of its first visiters, 
who could contemplate nature in her wild native dress, must 
have struck their senses more potently, and excited their feel- 
ings more intensely, than it can now do of those who see it 
surrounded by cultivated fields and monuments of art.* 
What can we imagine more beautiful, more truly sublime, 
than a majestic river suddenly contracted into less than half 
its former width, after tumbling over a bed of loose rocks, pre- 
cipitated, roaring as it were with very terror, into a dark cal- 
dron below, maddened and lashed into foam white as the driv- 
en snow, and throwing up a thick column of spray towering to 
the very arch of heaven — a cloud that is seen to hang over 

* Father Hennepin, a missionary traveller, who visited the Falls in 
1679, says, " Between the Lake Ontario and Lake Erie there is a vast 
and prodigious cadence of water, which falls down after a surprising and 
astonishing manner, insomuch that the universe does not afford its par- 
allel. This wonderful waterfall is about 600 feet, and composed of two 
great cross streams of water and two falls, with an isle sloping across the 
middle of it. The waters which fall from this horrible precipice do foam 
and boil after the most hideous manner imaginable, making an outrage 
ous noise, more terrible than that of thunder : for when the wind blow? 
out of the south, their dismal roaring may be heard more than fitU«n 
leagues off." 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 57 

the Falls by those navigating Erie and Ontario — by spectators 
a hundred miles distant from each other. Add to this impres- 
sion on the eye that made upon the ear, and our own senses 
partake of the wild tumult of the scene. Confused, we leave 
the spot with a true idea of the vast, the grand, the sublime. 
Captain Hall recommends the first view to be taken from the 
stageroad, 2 miles below the falls, and this is the advice also of 
Mr. Ingraham, the author of the Manual. 

The Falls on the American side (divided from the British 
Falls by Goat Island, which stands on the very verge of the 
precipice) are truly magnificent, though of less magnitude than 
the other. Here the admirer is presented with a variety of 
charming views and an effective arrangement of the pictu- 
resque ; but for a single view, in which you would gaze on sub- 
limity itself, take your stand on Table Rock. A flight of stairs 
has been erected a few rods below the falls descending to the 
ferry, where a boat with good oarsmen is always ready to 
convey passengers to the opposite shore. Many are of opin- 
ion that the view from the boat, whirling about in the eddies, 
is more interesting than any other ; we advise all to cross and 
judge for themselves. 

A bridge, constructed by Gen. P. B. Porter, of Black Rock, 
leads across the rapids to Bath Island, a quarter of a mile 
above the falls, which is connected to Goat Islayid by means 
of another bridge. At the tollhouse on Bath Island is kept 
for sale a good collection of minerals and other curiosities of 
the country. Brig Island is near, and connected with Bath 
Island by a narrow bridge. It curiously resembles the main 
and quarter decks of a brig, and is a delightful spot whereon to 
sip an ice or lemonade. 

Goat Island, sometimes called Iris, is laid out in delightful 
walks, which are shaded by a great variety of the lofty trees 
of the American forest. It derived its name from the fact of 
an aged and venerable goat having resided and held undispu- 
ted right there for several years prior to its being trodden by 
human feet. There are many fine views of the rapids above, 
and of the grand fall on the Canada side, from several points 
on the island. At the foot of this island is the Biddle stair- 
way, erected by N. Biddle, Esq., president of the U. S. Baidc. 
Near this place Sam Patch, who affirmed " some things can 
be done as well as others," and whose ambition led him to 
seek fame by sinking rather than rising in the world, made a 



5» NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 

leap of 118 feet descent into the water below, from a platform 
supported by ladders erected for the purpose. This was in 
the fall of 1829, a short time previous to his last fatal jump 
at Rochester. 

Terrapin Bridge formerly extended about ten feet over the 
precipice of the Crescent Fall, and afforded a splendid view, 
though one that intimidates the gentle and makes " the brave 
stand still." It is now, however, so much injured as not to be 
safe farther than the Tower. It naturally excites queer emo- 
tions to find one's self suspended, as it were, in mid-air over 
a yawning precipice, and causes an involuntary shudder as we 
turn our eyes from the giddy depths and the ever-falling cat- 
aract. 

The Tawcr is located about midway of this bridge. Those 
who desire a beautiful and living picture of the falls will visit 
the Camera Obscura, which presents an effective miniature of 
the falls and rapids, particularly when the sun shines, as there 
are then always several rainbows in the vicinity. The lunar 
bene, occasionally seen, is very beautiful. 

Whirlpool, 3 miles below the falls, is a curious combination 
of small pools, constantly generating and vanishing, included 
in one large sweep or pool, which is caused by a sudden elbow 
in the channel. It appears to the best advantage at low water ; 
and, at such times, the same log has frequently been known to 
remain whirling about in the pool more than a month. The pre- 
vailing idea that nothing passes the whirlpool, that it is fathom- 
less, and that everything coming within its vortex is swallowed 
up and hurled into oblivion, is entirely erroneous. The rapids 
for a mile above here are beautiful beyond comparison with 
those above the falls. 

Devil's Hole is 1 mile farther down, and exhibits a preci- 
pice very favourable to the idea that the falls were once there. 
The theory that they have receded even from Lewiston has 
generally obtained, though, admitting it, their progress must 
have been extremely gradual, as La Hontaine* described them 
in their present position more than one hundred and fifty years 
ago. There is a tradition that, during the old French War, a 

* Baron La Hontaine, who visited the Falls in 1683, says, "As for the 
waterfall of Niagara, 'tis 7 or 800 feet high, and half a league broad. 
Towards the middle of it we descry an island that leans towards the pre- 
cipice, as if it were ready to fall. All the beasts that cross the water 
■within half a quarter of a league (660 yards) above this unfortunate 
island are sucked in by force of tlie stream" 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 59 

party of traders, with their horses, wagons, and baggage, were 
jMrecipitated from the road into this horrible chasm by a gang 
of hostile Indians whom they met when passing to Lake Erie. 

The Pavilion Hotel and Clifton House are on the Canada 
side, situated on commanding spots near the falls. The visit- 
er has a beautiful view of the surrounding country from the 
roof or piazzas. 

The City of the Falls is laid out a short distance below 
the Pavilion, and several pretty cottages have already been 
erected. The land was purchased here by a company some 
years since, with a view to selling building-lots to the inhabi- 
tants of our Atlantic cities, as well as foreigners, who may de- 
sire a private summer residence at the falls. 

There is a neat pretty village on the American side called 
Manchester, in which is an excellent hotel. From here there 
are cars going almost hourly to Lewistox, a small village 
located on the ridge forming the celebrated Ridge-road from 
Rochester to Lewiston, and in appearance a very garden of 
fertility. From here the American steamboats leave three 
times a week for Ogdensburgh (on the route to Montreal) and 
the intermediate places. Conveyances are also constantly ply- 
ing from the British side to Queenston, directly opposite 
Lewiston, from which place the British boats depart on the 
route towards Montreal. 

Navy Island. Recent events have given importance to 
this locality. It is situated 600 yards from the Canada shore, 
and northwest from Owanungah or Grand Island. It is 2000 
yards long, 860 yards wide at its greatest breadth, and con- 
tains 304 acres. It derives its name from the circumstance 
of its being the place where a fleet was built for the protec- 
tion of the upper lakes by the British government. Here it 
was that a band of Canadian refugees and American volun- 
teers landed, and for some weeks maintained themselves 
against the fire of the batteries of Chippewa and the procla- 
mations of Governor Head during the late insurrection in 
Canada. A provisional government was established by Mr. 
M'Kenzie, and a military force organized under Mr. Van 
Rensselaer, the eccentric son of Gen. Solomon Van Rens- 
selaer, of x^lbany, well known for his attempt on Queenston 
heights. 

It is alleged by Mr. V. R., that if his confederates had 
furnished him with a steamboat, to enable him to land his men 



60 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM BUFFALO. 

above Chippewa, he would have fought his way to Toronto. 
The destruction of the CaroUne, an event too recent and 
well known to require any explanation here, doubtless pre- 
vented him from receiving the expected aid. The "patriots" 
abandoned the island without loss or discovery, and it is said 
a heavy fire was opened upon the deserted breastworks the 
day after the evacuation. No doubt we shall have, some day 
or other, amusing accounts of this affair. 

Directions to Visiters. Ingraham, in his Manual, ad- 
vises his readers to approach the falls from Lewiston ; on 
arriving at the hotel on the American side, to secure the ser- 
vices of a guide to be found at Hooker's Museum ; then to 
proceed across Goat Island, visit the Terrapin Bridge, the 
Biddle Staircase ; turn to the right, and carefully visit the 
"magnificent hall" formed by the falling flood of the Central 
Fall. Here is the famous Cave of the Winds, or Eolus's Cave, 
discovered 27 years since. It is 50 feet wide and 100 high, 
situated directly behind the Central Fall. It was entered for 
the first time July 14, 1836, by Mr. Parsons. On the Brit- 
ish side, the visiter will hurry to the Table Rock, and here 
he will find the view too magnificent to be described in 
words. 

The fall next the American side is called the Schlosser 
Fall, 56 rods wide, 167 feet high. Prospect Island, 10 yards 
wide, separates this from the centre fall, which is also 10 yards 
wide. Goat Island then intervenes, 80 rods in width at the 
edge, and then comes the Great Crescent or Horseshoe 
Fall, a quarter of a mile wide in a direct line, or half a mile 
following the curve. The fall is 13 feet lower than the 
Schlosser Fall, and this is the reason why so much more 
water passes over it. It is estimated that l600 millions of 
cubic feet of water pass over these falls every hour. 

The guide-books, expressly devoted to the localities of the 
falls, contain many other directions, and to Steele's and In- 
graham's we refer our readers. These are for sale at Buffalo 
and the falls. 

Brock's Monument. This tribute to the memory of the 
gallant Sir Isaac Brock, who fell in an action with the Ameri- 
cans under General Solomon Van Rensselaer, October 13, 
1812, was erected a few years since by several spirited individ- 
uals of Upper Canada. It has a base of about 20 feet square, 
with a spiral shaft extending to a height of 136 feet. A statue 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 61 

of Brock is intended to be placed on its summit. It is located 
on the heights about a quarter of a mile from Queenston, and 
aflfords the visiter a rich and varied view from its pinnacle.* 

The steamboats leaving Lewiston are the United States and 
St. Lawrence, for Oswego daily. On the British side, leav- 
ing Queenston, the Niagara, William IV., Cobourg, and 
St. George. A boat will leave Lewiston or Queenston every 
day of the week. There are on the lake and St. Lawrence, 
between Ogdensburgh and Niagara, other boats: Oneida, 
Queenston, Transit, Kingston, Sir James Kempt, Britannia, 
Black Hawk, Charles Carroll, Perseverance, Brockville, Iro- 
quois, Canada, Prescott, Commodore Barrie, and the Trav- 
eller. The Telegraph, a new boat, has been chartered by 
government, is armed, and kept in commission to protect the 
frontier. The Queen has also an armed steamer on Lakes 
Ontario and Erie. 

Leaving Lewiston, the boat proceeds down the Niagara, 
whose verdant banks, still deep-moving current, and transpa- 
rent surface cause us unconsciously to contrast the scene 
with the one we have last gazed on. There are the *' troubled 
waters," mad, billowy, and raging : here, calm, mild, and 
submissive, subsided into childlike placidity. 

The first stop is at Youngston, half a mile from the mouth 
of the river; and the next at Fort Niagara, famed as the 
place of Morgan's imprisonment, which is located directly at 
the junction of the river and the lake. This place is fortified, 
but not generally garrisoned. It is a spot celebrated in our 
colonial and subsequent history. It was built by the French 
in 1751, and captured from them in 1759. It remained in 
the possession of the English during the war of independ- 
ence ; and though, by the terms of the treaty, it became 
the property of the United States, it was not delivered until 
1795. During the war of 1812-15, when General M'Clure 
evacuated Fort George, Lieutenant-colonel Murray, with a 
body of British troops, crossed the river at night and made an 
assault on it in the morning of December 19, 1813, and took 
it by storm. It again remained in the possession of the enemy 
till the conclusion of the war. The stone wall along the lake 
has been built since that period. 

Fort George, opposite, has been always considered a post 
of great importance ; and, though now in ruins, has been the 
scene of much hard fighting. On the 27th of May, 1813, 

* Only the ruins are now to be seen, as it was blown up with powder 
by an iucendiary in 1840. 

P 



62 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 

after a heavy cannonade from Fort Niagara, and a battery 
which gained the soubriquet of the " Lighthouse," commanded 
by the gallant Towson, the Americans landed from the fleet 
under Chauncey in three brigades, led on by Colonel Scott. 
After a short resistance, the enemy fled, and were pursued 
some distance. This triumph was succeeded by a series of 
misfortunes to the American army, and finally the post was 
abandoned by the commanding general, M'Clure of the mili- 
tia, who, on his retreat, most unjustifiably burnt the town of 
Newark, now Niagara, and paved the way for severe retalia- 
tions on the part of the enemy. 

The works which contain the present barrack are part of a 
later work called Fort Massasauga, built since the war. The 
Welland Canal., connecting the Lakes Erie and Ontario, emp- 
ties into Lake Ontario about 14 miles above this place. Many 
vessels ply regularly between the different ports on both lakes 
by means of this canal, though it is frequently out of repair, 
having never been fully finished. It was originally owned in 
part by the government of Upper Canada ; and the rest, 
being the major part, by individuals, who in 1834 proposed 
to relinquish their stock on condition that the goverrunent 
would reimburse them principal and interest. On the 28th 
January, 1834, the legislature passed a resolution acceding to 
the terms ; but on the following day had a reconsideration, 
which resulted in appropriating $200,000 for the improve- 
ment of the canal ; which placed it in a complete condition, 
beneficial to the community and profitable to the proprietors. 

We now strike out on the pure, broad waters of Lake On- 
tario, which is the boundary between the United States and 
Canada. It is 180 miles in length, and varies in breadth 
from 30 to 60 miles. The water is very deep, clear, and 
cold, and abounds with fine fish ; the sturgeon, salmon, mus- 
kalonge, as also a great variety of smaller ones ; and from 
the following account of John Maude, under the date of Au- 
gust 28, 1800, it seems that more uncomely fish were once, 
and perhaps now are, the tenants of this great inland sea ; 
" A boat that had sailed from York, the present seat of gov- 
ernment, unexpectedly returned again ; the people on board 
relating with great terror their having seen a great snake, at 
least thirty feet long ; which, from its rearing its head and 
forepart of its body out of the water, they conjectured meant 
to attack them. The Indians present, who have always » 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 63 

corroborating story ready, asserted that their people had seen 
three such snakes, and had killed two!" 

York, or Toronto, as it is now called, late seat of govern- 
ment of Upper Canada, is 36 miles from Fort Niagara, di- 
rectly across the lake. The harbour is formed by a peninsula 
extending into the lake called Gibraltar Point, and affords 
great protection to vessels in hard weather, though it is very 
difficult of entrance, the channel being quite narrow. On 
the extremity of the peninsula a lighthouse is located; and 
opposite, on the mainland, is the garrison and the battle-ground 
where the gallant Pike fell. 

York is a busy, bustling town, and presents more nearly 
the appearance of an American village than any other in the 
Canadas ; there are a great number of stores, and many of 
them are kept by young men from the States. It is uncom- 
monly thriving, and the value of property is nearly as high 
as in the city of New- York : more than 300 buildings were 
erected in 1833. It was taken by the Americans under Gen- 
eral Dearborn in 1813, and soon after evacuated. It was 
twice visited by the Americans during the war. 

There is a singular sect in this vicinity, of whom you oc- 
casionally see a specimen in town, called, Tunkers or Dun-' 
kards : they present a most extraordinary appearance, wearing 
beards nearly two feet long, little skimmer hats, and long- 
skirted coats. / Some miles in the interior is the village of 
Hope, which (s inhabited by a still more peculiar sect of peo- 
ple, the Davidites, or Children of Peace, who derive their 
name from its founder and present leader David Willson. 
The village consists of 40 or 50 neat dwellings, and has a 
picturesque location on the declivity of a hill : but what 
renders it most imposing is David's Temple, erected last year 
on the summit of the hill. It is 70 feet square at the base, 
of a pyramidical shape, and about 80 feet in height, with a 
pulpit and orchestra in the interior. Connected with the so- 
ciety is a band of singing virgins, who have an annual feas^ 
at which they celebrate their religion after the manner of the 
Mosaic, and demonstrate their joy by singing, dancing, &c. 
When one of the sect wishes to matrimonialize a virgin, he 
informs David of the fact, who appoints a " time and place" 
of meeting, and allows the pair two hours to determine whether 



64 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA 

" 'Tis better bear the ills they have, 
Or fly to others which they know not of." 

David keeps the store, makes their laws, is arbitrator, judge, 
advocate, and general financier^ 

Toronto, so named from a small river of that name a short 
distance westward of the town, has recently become so im- 
portant in the eyes of the curious, that a sketch of a day 
passed there the last season, from the pages of the New- York 
Mirror, may possibly amuse the reader, particularly if he 
should happen to have this little book in his hand while cross- 
ing over in the Transit from Niagara. 

" I have been several times at Toronto, and am one of the 
few Americans who have taken a fancy to the place. It may 
be because I visited it in company with some agreeable com- 
panions, or because I have there some kmd and attentive 
friends. My more recent excursion has a reminiscence con- 
nected with it which induces me ' to write it down.' Not 
long since I found myself with a small, snug party of travel- 
lers, standing on the wooden wharf at Niagara, waiting for the 
morning boat to Toronto, and watching with anxiety, ad in- 
terim, a cold gray sky, which we all pronounced quite out of 
character for the season. Some shivering urchins near us 
were trying to catch their breakfasts off some dingy-looking 
schooners, ever and anon jerking up their lines with an energy 
that endangered the eyes of the nearest spectators. Oppo- 
site, several boats had put off from Fort Niagara for similar 
purposes, the fort itself standing out clear and massively from 
the back-ground of the picture, composed alike of water and 
of sky. 

" No others than fishermen seemed in possession of the for- 
tress, unless the attendant of the lighthouse might have been 
so considered ; he whose nightly avocations have continued 
uninterrupted amid all the changes of the war-department 
and the arrival and departure of the military. This beacon- 
light had once guided my path during a stormy night, and I 
greeted my old friend with pleasure, as it now sentinelled the 
waste of waters. 

" By-and-by, each moment growing more tedious, the smoke 
of the Hamilton's chimneys was seen enlarging in volume 
and decreasing its distance ; and, in a few minutes, a neatly- 
constructed steamboat, painted black, with a red stripe below 
her guards, came alongside from Lewiston and was made fast 
to the dock. 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 65 

" Our luggage was speedily transferred, and we soon found 
ourselves on board and under way. I always have had an 
idea that something of the character of a town may be guessed 
by the conversation that takes place between those who are 
leaving home in a steamboat and those who remain behind. 

" I remember that when I was once at Shrewsbury, New- 
Jersey, the whole gabble was about marketing and peaches. 
At the New- York wharves there is a good deal of cockney 
pretension discoverable in the interminable nothings about 
' town,' ' in town,' * out of town,' ' going up the river to 

Mr. 's place ;' ' hopes of meeting Mr. A. and Mrs. B.,' 

some ultra fashionable names being loudly repeated for the 
benefit of the by-standers, to the great satisfaction of the nar- 
rator himself. At Albany I have frequently been pleased with 
the same kind of good-by conversation — ' I'm off for a few 
days ;' or ' Tom, don't forget to go down to Jim's, and get 
that are fish and ile.' 

" On this occasion, the sounds that floated around me were 
those of persons who shone with reflected light. ' Are )'^ou 
going 'omel' 'Did you see Captain Rifle before you leftl' 
* The Honourable Mr. M'Tab is arrived from St. Catharine's, 
for I just now left him.' 'Don't forget to tell the mantua- 
maker at Toronto that the Honourable Mrs. Belton wishes 
her dresses sent up by the next boat.' By the time I had 
fairly endeavoured to learn whether these scraps of conversa- 
tion would justify my theory, we were oflf several miles from 
the shore, and it was with some difficulty I recognised the port 
we had left behind us. 

" The Hamilton was a very comfortable boat, and rejoiced in 
a pair of pretty engmes, with improved boilers, that drove her 
along readily at the rate of twelve miles an hour. After a 
couple of hours we began to see the outlines of a distant town 
ahead, and a lighthouse, to which we seemed running down. 
By-and-by a low sandy beach discovered itself on our right, 
with a few huts upon it ; to the left, a long bank, crowned 
with handsome dwellings, and behind it clusters of roofs, that 
bespoke a thickly-settled town. As we entered the harbour, 
which Ues between the low sandy point and this natural terrace, 
we found it opening up before us a considerable distance, and 
possessing a channel of some narrowness, marked out by a 
line of buoys. In a few minutes more we were fairly at the 
wharf, consisting of a long wooden platform extending out 

r2 



66 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 

from the shore, and alongside of other steamboats, all hot and 
whizzing, ready to move at the first jingle of the pilot's bell. 

" While the captain was making his vessel snug and fast we 
had time to look around us, and fix in our mind's eye the 
prominent features of the place- In one direction a dismast- 
ed wmdmill rose up before us ; in another was a vessel on 
the stocks, lying among other vessels that had probably been 
launched from the same spot ; in front of us stretched the 
town, consisting of a large number of buildings, generally of 
a style of architecture unusual to us. Here and there some 
large square dwellings, of three or four stories in height, tow- 
ered above the rest, of which the roofs projected on every side. 
Such a one was the governor's house, which was painted of a 
yellow colour, surrounded by shrubbery, and distinguished by 
a flagstaff, carrying the red cross of St. George. Along the 
terrace were some very showy houses in the cottage, and oth- 
ers in the Gothic style. In a word, there was an air of sub- 
stance, of taste, and of refinement discoverable in many of the 
mansions which thus met our view. On the extreme left of 
the town, upon the terrace already mentioned, was the bar- 
racks, near which a spot was pointed out as the scene of the 
death of Pike. I could not help thinking, notwithstanding 
the early services of this gallant soldier, and the distinguished 
bravery with which he led the attack at Little York, that his 
memory will longest be cherished by those who have any ten- 
derness of heart, for the exquisite letter which he wrote his 
wife on the eve of the engagement. It is often thus that 
some striking incident of a casual nature does more to portray 
the real character of a hero than all the ' bruised arms' he 
may have ' hung up for monuments.' 

'* To the right of the barracks, at some distance, are the gov- 
ernment-house and public offices, substantial and well-design- 
ed edifices of brick, that present an imposing appearance, and 
claimed our next attention. 

" After having sent our luggage to the Ontario House, for 
the North American was full, we strolled about the place. 
There were evident signs of improvement ; buildings were 
being erected, streets macadamized, labourers were busy 
everywhere, and the shops filled with goods. These are quite 
in a different style from our own. They contain many arti- 
cles of merchandise which are never seen in ours under any 
circumstances. I found on sale a great variety of useful 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 67 

things, which I should have been glad to bring away had not 
the duties been too heavy. A few articles of real utility, 
however, proved too much for my self-denial, and were forth- 
with transferred to my possession. In the bookstores I found 
many valuable editions of late scientific works, not yet import- 
ed by our booksellers, and in the jeweller's shops very unique 
objects of taste that are not ' in fashion in the States.' In 
short, had I been mercantile in my pursuits, I could have made 
some bargains ' worthy of attention.' 

" At this time the colonial parliament was in session, the 
question of a suspension of specie payments being the subject 
of discussion. 

" We entered the house of assembly while a debate was 
going on, and had an opportunity of observing the forms of 
business. The room was a large square one ; on one side 
was a number of plain seats for spectators, rising one above 
another, and of very simple construction ; these were separ- 
ated from the house by a railing in front. Opposite the seats 
of the spectators sat the speaker, on an ill-constructed seat, in 
front of a screen of green baize. At his right hand was a 
small desk, equally inconvenient with the seat itself. The 
speaker was a good-looking man, dressed in a black gown and 
cocked hat — Mr. M'Nab. In front of him was the clerk's 
table, at which sat an elderly person, also in a black gown. 
Around this table, at a little distance, and in two parallel cir- 
cles, sat the honourable members, each having a little square 
pedestal before him, which served for closet and desk. There 
was nothing striking in the appearance of these gentlemen. 
They were rather slovenly in their dress, and not very intel- 
lectual in countenance. The peculiarities which would strike 
an American were the occasional cries of ' hear him, hear 
him,' not deep nor loud, with which they occasionally greeted 
the speakers. 

" A distinguished leader of the government made a speech 
of some humour, which was well received, and some others 
briefly addressed the chair without displaying any particular 
talent. On calling up a local bill, the house went into a 
committee of the whole, upon which the speaker left the 
chair, and the sergeant-at-arms went up to the clerk's table, 
took the wooden mace which lay there, and placed it under- 
neath. I discovered that the officers of the house wore a 
rosette and riband of black silk upon the collars of their coats 



68 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 

behind, in imitation of the tie of the bag-wigs still worn by some 
officials in the mother country. Across the hall was the council- 
room, which we next visited. This is a large, handsome room, 
having carpets and draperies of crimson, and railings and chairs 
of dark and polished oak. A handsome throne stood on one 
side of the room, with appropriate insignias. A few gentlemen 
in gowns were scattered about, engaged in reading, the coun- 
cil not then being in session. A venerable old man, dressed 
in a full suit of black, cut in an antiquated style, sat in front 
of a table outside the bar. The rosette behind, and a superb- 
ly-mounted dress-sword in his hand, at once indicated his being 
the sergeant-at-arms. While we were admiring the neatness 
of this apartment, we recognised among the loungers a gentle- 
man in his robes, who proved to be a highly-valued acquaint- 
ance of former years. Through his kindness we received im- 
mediate introductions to some of the most distinguished per- 
sons in the province. The gentlemanly person and wellbred 
manner of the attorney-general was not lost upon us, nor did 
the force of his conversational powers escape our notice. 

" Our next movement was to the governm'ent-house, and, 
though not a public day, we were promised a sight of Sir Fran- 
cis Bond Head. A grenadier at the gate and another at the 
door of the house reminded us of the state in which the repre- 
sentatives of England maintain themselves wherever her red 
cross is displayed. We entered a small square room plainly 
furnished, which communicated on two sides opposite with 
other rooms. Near a small table sat the governor's orderly, 
his sword unhung, and his white gloves and bearskin-covered 
cap lying before him. A large book, containing the names of 
the visiters, seemed to be in his charge. Our friend, aware of 
the circumstance that this was not a visiting day, sent up his 
name to the aiddecamp in waiting, and whom we could see 
at the time sitting in another room adjoining. Colonel Hal- 
kett,*" who is a captain in the guards, a very fine and gallant 
officer, immediately went in to the governor, and after a few 
moments asked us into a small anteroom on our right hand, 
in which was a table covered with newspapers. Here we re- 
mained but a moment, when we were asked to walk into the 
governor's office. As we entered a person of middle size, 

* Since married to the accomplished daughter of the veteran Colonel 
Moodie, who was killed by the insurgents near Toronto. 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 69 

dressed m a drab frockcoat, buff vest, light trousers, and shoes ; 
a gold watchchain about his neck, that was passed with some 
care through sundry buttonholes, rose from a sofa underneath 
a recess in the wall, came forward to give us his hand, and 
ask us to be seated. His countenance was not what could be 
termed a tine one, yet it was manly, and his eyes were quick 
and sparkling. Long service in various climes had imbrown- 
ed his complexion, and his hair, which stood quite erect above 
his forehead, was almost gray. In front of him was a long 
table covered with boxes and papers, and at the opposite end 
a young lad was busily engaged in writing. 

" Our conversation turned on the climate of Canada, the 
governor's fondness for equestrian exercise, natural enough 
to one who had galloped across the Pampas. He expressed 
great desire to see the western prairies, and to learn the re- 
sult of Mr. Catlin's labours in the study of aboriginal history 
and manners. He impressed us with the conviction of his 
being a man of ability. Indeed, although his connexion with 
the Errol family may have been one cause of his advancement, 
yet his literary efforts are of a character to place him among 
the first men of his class. His Tour across the Pampas, his 
Bubbles from the Brunnens, and his Poorhouse Report, are 
productions too well known to require any commentary from 
a passing traveller. 

" We took our leave much pleased with the interview. 
Our curiosity was gratified by a personal knowledge of a cele- 
brated character, and I am one of those who believe 
" * The proper study of mankind is man.' 

" The indisposition of Lady Head alone prevented her from 
receiving us, although the hour of our visit was rather one of 
necessity than etiquette. The rest of the day was spent in 
viewing the town, watching the vessels in the harbour, and 
observing the peculiarities and foreign air of the equipages 
which rolled through the streets. A late and indifiFerent din- 
ner ended the day. 

" At ten o'clock P. M. we went on board the Great Brit- 
ain, an admirable seaboat, commanded by Captain Whitney, 
bound down the lake the same night. The large staterooms, 
the excellent fare, and the kind attentions of the commander, 
made our trip a pleasant one. Was this a proper moment, I 
could relate some interesting anecdotes both of the vessel and 



70 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 

captain. Lake Ontario is a sheet of water that is not to be 
passed over without due caution. A most beautiful sky, a 
clear atmosphere, and a calm surface, made our brief voyage 
one of unalloyed comfort. ' While we glided gayly along the 
beautiful shores of Canada, we could not but admire the vast 
fields open to human improvement, nor overlook the fact that 
the manners and customs prevailing in the provinces afforded 
a striking and a picturesque contrast to those on our own side. 
It was this peculiarity that made us chiefly remember a day 
AT Toronto." 

Charlotte, a small village at the mouth of the Genesee 
River ^ is the next landing-place. There is a good lighthouse 
here, and the government has recently erected piers, by which it 
is rendered a safe harbour. It is one hundred and ten miles 
from York, though only eighty-five from Niagara along the 
coast. Ascending the Genesee, a beautiful meandering river, 
quite narrow, enclosed in high banks, with scenery not unlike 
that of the Hudson — 5 miles, we arrive at Carthage or North 
Rochester ; at which place the boat is generally delayed from 
three to five hours, giving the passengers time to visit the 
city of Rochester, 3 miles distant (by means of a railroad), 
and return to pursue their tour. The " Lower Falls" of the 
Genesee are at Carthage, and well worthy a visit. The 
wreck of the far-famed " Carthage Bridge" is here to be seen. 
A single arch of 300 feet chord and 250 elevation formed 
the bridge. 

The exports from this port of Rochester are very large, and 
the annual value is estimated at $500,000. Coasting along, 
the boat, if it has previously touched at Rochester, passes by 
Pultneyville, the mouth of the Irondequoit Bay, and then Great 
Sodus Bay, a beautiful harbour, with 8 feet water on the shal- 
lowest part of the bar, and a circumference of 18 miles. It 
abounds with fish and fowl, and its shores present the most 
picturesque sites for building. From Port Glasgow, at the 
head of the bay to Clyde, on the Erie Canal, is a distance of 
ten miles and three quarters. A ship canal to the Cayuga 
lake is now in progress. Twenty- eight miles farther is the 
justly admired and celebrated port of 

Oswego. It is one of the best harbours on the lake. This 
fast-growing village is located on an elevated site at the mouth 
of the Oswego River, the channel through which Oneida, Cay- 
uga, Seneca, and several smaller lakes discharge their surplus 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 71 

waters into Lake Ontario. It has many natural advantages as 
a manufacturing and commercial town besides those given by 
the completion of the Oswego and Welland Canals, and will 
always be one of the most important places on the northern 
frontier. The village lies on both sides of the river, and is 
connected by a bridge 700 feet long. It comprises several fine 
churches, mills, warehouses, and two banks, and lies seventy- 
five miles northvi^est of Utica, for which place stages and 
canal-packets leave daily. Its present population is about 
6000. There is a fine harbour here, formed by a pier across 
the mouth of the river, which has been erected by the United 
States' government at an expense of about $100,000. There 
is a fine drydock here, with the finest and most improved 
machinery, for hauling out vessels of the largest class. 

Oswego is favoured with extensive water-privileges, formed 
by falls in the river a short distance from the village. A very 
extensive canal is completed on the west bank of the river, 
for the purpose of supplying power to mills and manufactories, 
which will doubtless add to the already prosperous condition 
of the place. There is a daily line of packets from this place 
to Syracuse. The lake steamboats touch every day to land 
and receive passengers. 

Sackett's Harbour, 40 miles farther, is the next place at 
which the boat stops. The principal objects worthy of notice 
are the United States' barracks, and the large ship still on the 
stocks and enclosed, it not having been finished when peace 
was declared. This village was, until lately, hardly known 
except as the rendezvous of the army and navy on the lakes 
during the late war ; but the real advantages of the place 
have been recently developed, and it is now in a growing and 
prosperous condition. It is now garrisoned in part only. 

Watertown is a village with near 4000 inhabitants, ten 
miles inland from the harbour, and possessed of almost un- 
limited water-power. Several woollen factories, flouring 
mills, and machine shops are now in operation here. There 
is a bank, an academy, several churches, and other public in- 
stitutions. 

Black River empties into Sackett's Harbour (which is the 
best on the lake) a little north of the village. A stage leaves 
here daily for Utica, 98 miles distant. Passing Stony, Gallop^ 
Pigeon, and the Royal Duck Islands on the left, Bull-Rock 



72 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 

and Bear Points, Grenadier and Simcoe Islands on the right, 
the boat arrives at the town of 

Kingston, U. C, which lies 38 miles directly across the 
lake from Sackett's Harbour, and at the head of the British 
channel of the St. Lawrence River. This is a flourishing 
town in the Midland District of Upper Canada, about two 
hundred miles southwest of Montreal. Its principal buildings 
are the Courthouse, Episcopal Church, the barracks of his 
majesty, and two banks, the '' Commercial," and a branch of 
the " Bank of Upper Canada." 

The Garrison is on the peninsula across the bay, and pre- 
sents a very grand and formidable appearance when approached 
from the lake or river. It is so located as to afTord almost 
perfect security to the town in case of invasion. The offi- 
cers are gentlemen, and afford every facility to strangers visit- 
ing the establishment. Several vessels are seen on the stocks, 
where they have stood ever since the late war. 

The Rideau Canal, communicating with Bytown, on the 
Ottawa or Grand River, commences here. It has been in op- 
eration a short time, and promises to be of great value to the 
public, if not to government, as it opens a communication with 
a fertile region of country before hardly known, abounding 
with scenery, the cragged tree-topped mountain, the sporting 
waterfall, and the shining river, which, for boldness and beauty, 
cannot be surpassed. 

Mr. Hume, whose book, " Canada as it is," we recommend 
to the Canadian traveller, says, " All must acknowledge the 
beauty and sublimity of the Alps, the stupendous grandeur of 
Niagara; but the diversified and interesting scenery of the 
Ottawa must not be denied." 

The boat now enters the noble St. Lawrence ; and, at the 
foot of Long or Grand Island, on the right, about 10 miles 
from Kingston, we approach the Thousand Islands. It is 
said that these islands number 1300, though they are not, as 
many suppose, included within a circumference of a few miles, 
but embrace a distance of nearly fifty miles. He who could 
count the islands in this strange labyrinth must have been 
possessed of the most indefatigable, yea, of more than wo- 
man's curiosity. They have high, rocky shores, are most of 
them covered with a dense wood, separated by narrow, wind- 
ing, and intricate channels, and full of fastnesses of great nat- 
ural strength. At this time (June, '38) the celebrated " Bill 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 73 

Johnston" and gang, who burned the steamboat Sir Robert 
Peel in May last at " Wells' Island" (one of the Thousand 
Islands), are lurking among them ; and, being well armed, and 
provided with ammunition and boats adapted to the wmdmg 
channels, the miUtary in pursuit find it difficult to capture 
them. Johnston is a Canadian by birth, but has been many 
years a resident of French Creek, on the American side. He 
is celebrated as the robber of the Canadian mail during the 
last war with Great Britain. 

The next stop is at the American village called Cornelia. 
23 miles from Kingston. French Creek empties into the river 
near the village. This creek derives its name from there hav- 
iiig been a French settlement at its mouth during the French 
war. 

Alexandria Bay is 12 miles farther. Here the boats 
generally take in wood, which delays them an hour or two, 
during which time passengers may indulge in the luxury of 
contemplating a " rock-bound shore." A wag once remarked 
of this place, that " he hardly knew where the inhabitants 
found earth enough to bury their dead." The Redwood Glass- 
works are near here. Proceeding 24 miles farther through 
this chaos of islands, we arrive at 

Brockville. This place took its name from General Sir 
Isaac Brock, and is decidedly the neatest-looking village in 
all the Canadas. A large forwarding business is done here. 

MoRRisTOWN, an American village, is nearly opposite here. 
The last of the Thousand Islands is seen here. Eleven miles 
farther, on a most beautiful sheet of water one and a quarter 
miles in width, and we arrive at 

Ogdensburgh. This village contains a population of about 
2000, has considerable trade, and a good harbour in the mouth 
of the Oswegatchie River. Here is the terminating point of 
navigable water for vessels from Lake Ontario, and the place 
where goods are transhipped from the steamboats and schoon- 
ers to balteaux, and by them carried down the rapids to Mon- 
treal, 140 miles distant. It is equidistant 120 miles from 
Uiica and Plattsbargh. Ogdensburgh was captured by the 
British under Colonel M'Donell during the late war. 

Prescott, a small village opposite here, is where the Ca- 
nadian vessels tranship goods, passengers, &c. 

There are two fine steamboats here, which have been con- 
structed expressly with a view to running the rapids, the Can- 
G 



74 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 

ada and Gildersleevc. One of these generally leaves on tliR 
arrival of the large boats, and proceeds, passing the Gallop 
Rapid, Rapid Plat, and through scenery of the most impres- 
sive and bewitching character, to Dickinson's Landing, 38 
miles on the route to Montreal. Here you take stagecoach 
for 12 miles (avoiding the rapid called the Long Sault, where 
the water is so swift, that, should the boats descend, they 
would be unable to return), which brings you to Cornwall. 
Here you embark on board the steamboat, which goes 41 miles 
to CoTEAU DU Lac, passing the Indian village of St. Regis. 
From the Coteau you proceed by land to the foot of the rapids 
called the Cascades, 16 miles, when you again take steamboat 
on Lake St. Francis, 24 miles, to Lachine, a long, straggling, 
uninteresting village. From here a stage ride of 9 miles, and 
you arrive at the city of Montreal. 

Montreal is located on an island of the same name, 32 
miles in length by 10 in breadth. It is the largest city in 
either of the Canadian provinces, extending two miles on the 
river and half a mile back ; is located at the head of ship nav- 
igation, and may be considered the metropolis of the British 
dominions on the St. Lawrence and the lakes. Its population 
is about 30,000. The principal trade here is in lumber, flour, 
ashes, and provisions, a great proportion of which are received 
from the United States, and here shipped for Great Britain 
and the British West Indies. 

The late events in the Lower Province have made its gov- 
ernor. Sir John Colborne, quite conspicuous. The curiosity 
of our readers may possibly be gratified by the following brief 
sketch of his life, from good authority, though evidently by the 
hand of a friend. 

"Sir John Colborne,* the present commander-in-chief in 
Canada, was born at Lymington, in Hampshire, in the year 
1777. His father had embarked a considerable fortune in the 
salt manufactories at that place, then in a flourishing state, 
but which in a few years were all destroyed by excessive tax- 
ation, and Mr. Colborne involved in their ruin. In 1786 Sir 
John was placed in the Blue-coat school, London, where he 
remained about three years, during which his father died, and 
his mother became the wife of the Rev. T. Bargus, prebend 
of Winchester, to which school he was removed, and there 
finished his education. In 1794 he was appointed an ensign 
to the 20th, and in the following year promoted to a lieuteu- 

♦ Sir John was succeeded this year by Lord Sydenham, formerly 
a celebrated Loadoa merchant. 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 75 

ancy. In the expedition to Holland under the Duke of York 
he was severely wounded in the head, and was one of the 
very few officers who, after being wounded, rejoined their 
regiments on that service. From that to the end of the war 
his life was a continued scene of active service. He was in 
rriost of the battles in the peninsula, was repeatedly wounded, 
by which he nearly lost the use of one arm ; and every com- 
mander under whom he served has borne ample testimony to 
his abilities and conduct. He married a lady named Young 
(whose two brothers are married to Sir John's two sisters), and 
has a large family. He was created a K.C.B. in 1814, and 
is now colonel of the 94th. He has commanded in Canada 
ten years, where the kindness of heart and urbanity of man- 
ners, both of Lady Colborne and himself, endeared them to 
all ranks and parties. He is eminently calculated for the cir- 
cumstances under which he is now placed ; for, although vig- 
orous, prompt, and decisive in his military duties, humanity 
will never want an advocate where Sir John Colborne is 
present." 

There is a college, with 300 students, and several magnifi- 
cent buildings in the city. The English church, Hotel Dieu, 
government house, courthouse, theatre, museum, several con- 
vents, and the Catholic church, which is undoubtedly the 
finest religious edifice in America. It is 225 feet in length, 
and will accommodate 10,000 persons. The Nelson Monu- 
ment is near the market-place. " The Mountain," a great 
resort for strangers, is near, and affords an extensive and very 
beautiful view of the city and surrounding country. 

Montreal is 393 miles north of New- York, and 280 N.N. W. 
of Boston. The river is here about two miles in width ; and 
the current is so rapid that all vessels are towed up from Que- 
bec, 170 miles below, by steamboats, of which there are a 
great nuuiber, and those of the first order. The Canada, 
Captain Brush, and St. George, Captain Armstrong, are ranked 
first on the list. 

Tourists generally make a trip from here to Quebec, a place 
with many attractions for strangers, grand fortifications, and 
beautiful scenery, though the most interesting object, the 
Castle of St. Louis, was destroyed by fire in 1834, and re- 
turn to proceed on their way to Albany, via Lake Champlain, 
liake George, and the Springs. Guides to the traveller through 
Montreal and Quebec will be found on sale at the bookstores 



76 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 

of those cities. The scenery on the St. Lawrence between 
Montreal and Quebec is beautiful almost beyond description^, 
and is rendered doubly interesting by nearly an unbroken row 
of houses on each bank, interspersed with a church at intervals 
of six and nine miles. 

The mode of proceeding from Montreal is to take steamboat 
for La Prairie, 9 miles, where cars are in readiness to con- 
vey passengers 18 miles to St. John's, the foot of navigation 
on Lake Champlain. Many of the most interesting events of 
our country are associated with the history of this lake. Du- 
ring the French and revolutionary wars, St. John's was a post 
of considerable importance as a frontier town. It is a place 
of considerable business, and contains over 800 inhabitants, 
though it does not present the most prepossessing appearance. 
The new and fast steamboats Burlmgton, Captain Sherman, 
and Winooski, Captain Lyon, leave St. John's alternately 
every day for Whitehall, 150 miles distant. The Burlington 
leaves St. John's Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at I 
P.M., and Whitehall the alternate days at the same hour. 
The Winooski fills up the residue of tho week. Passengers 
leaving Whitehall at 1 P.M. arrive at Montreal before noon 
the next day, and those leaving Montreal at 9 or 10 A.M. ar- 
rive at Albany the next afternoon. In connexion with this 
excellent line of boats, stages ply from Plattsburgh to Ogdens- 
burgh, and from Burlington to Boston. The' new boat Bur- 
lington has made the trip in 9 hours 36 minutes ! I 

Isle Aux Noix, 14 miles from St. Jphn's, is a strong military 
and naval post, in possession of the English. The establish- 
ment is fortified and in a good state of repair. A few troops 
are still kept here. A few years since, the remains of the ves- 
sels that fled from the battle at Cumberland Head were to be 
seen hauled up on the shore. 

Plattsburgh, 37 miles farther, is located on a pleasant 
site, at the mouth of the Saranac River, on the west side of 
the lake. Here it was that M'Donough and M'Comb achieved 
a brilliant victory over the British under the command of Pro- 
vost and Downie, in the last war, September 11, 1814. 

The British army consisted of about 14,000 men, while the 
American army was composed of 3000 undisciplined troops. 
This handful of stout-hearted ploughmen kept the contending 
forces at bay for about two hours, and finally obliged them to 
retire with a loss of about 2500 men. The battle on the lake 



NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 77 

and on land was going on at the same time and in sight of 
each other. Eighty-six guns and 820 men constituted the 
American force on the lake, opposing ninety-five guns and 
1050 men. Commodore Downie fell in the engagement ; and 
a neat monument has been erected to his memory in the 
churchyard at Plattsburgh, which bears a neat and impressive 
inscription. Several other officers are here buried, having no 
monument or record to inform us that they " lived and died," 
save that engraven on the hearts of their countrymen. Gen- 
eral M'Comb's cantonment and breastworks, and the house in 
which General Provost held his headquarters, are in the near 
vicinity. 

The many associations connected with this village will be 
sure to interest the traveller, and make a stay of a day or two 
anything but disagreeable. It contains between 2000 and 
3000 inhabitants, and about 350 houses, among which are the 
courthouse and county jail. Fifteen miles farther and we 
arrive at 

Port Kent. This is a small village which has grown up 
within a few years, and promises a continuance of prosperity. 
Passengers for Keesevilie generally land here. From here, 
looking north, may be seen Grand Island, Two Sisters, Isle 
la Motte, Point la Roche, Cumberland Head, and Belcore 
and Macomb's Islands : on the east, Stave, Providence, and 
Hog Islands, Colchester Point ; and in the back-ground the 
Green Mountains of Vermont : on the south, the village of 
Burhngton, and the high peak called the Camel's Rump ; the 
tout ensemble forming a more pleasing and picturesque view 
than imagination can invent. The residence of Elkanah 
Watson is here quite conspicuous. 

Burlington is 11 miles farther, on the east side of the 
lake. The village is located on a gentle acclivity, rising 
gradually from the lake, and presents an appearance similar 
to many others in the New-England States, which have so, 
often been admired by travellers. The University of Ver- 
mont is located on the summit of the eminence, and affords a 
splendid view of the lake and surrounding country. The 
village consists of about 300 buildings, among which are two 
banks, courthouse, jail, and three churches. 

TicoNDEROGA is 50 miles farther, and is the place where 
pleasure-travellers generally leave the boat in order to take 
Lake George in their tour, though some proceed to Whtte- 
G 3 



78 NORTHERN ROUTE FROM NIAGARA. 

hall, 24 miles farther, and there take stage for Saratoga via 
Saiidy Hill or Albany. The fort and ruins of Ticonderoga 
are objects of great interest, and are frequently visited. The 
fortress was constructed by the French in 1756, and, judging 
from the walls which still remain, must have been uncom- 
monly strong. It stands about 200 feet above the level of 
7ne lake. The Magazine, under ground, of stone, built 
arching, remains nearly entire ; it is 35 feet long, 1 5 feet 
wide, and 8 feet high. A subterraneous passage of 20 or 30 
rods in length leads from it to the lake. When Colonel 
Ethan Allen took the fort, "iw the name of the Great Jehovah 
and the Continental Congress,'''' he passed through this chan- 
nel. This was in 1775. From here a ride of three miles 
takes the tourist to the steamboat landing at the outlet of 

Lake George.* This is a beautiful lake, 36 miles in 
length, and varying from three quarters of a mile to 4 miles 
in width. " There are few places where a greater variety of 
inducements attract the stranger than at Lake George. Be- 
sides the interest which is excited from an association of 
many important historic events, this place is rendered pecu- 
liarly interesting from the unrivalled exhibition of the beauti- 
ful and romantic scenery presented by the lake and its en- 
virons." Having taken passage on board the new steamer 
Forester, we pass Prisoner's Island, Anthony''s Nose (this is 
a standard name ; and we as much expect a promontory on 
every river and lake with this cognomen, as we expect to see 
Daniel Lambert in every museum), Roger''s Slide, Sabbath- 
Day Point, Half-way Island, and Black Mountain, which is 
2200 feet in height. Passing Tongue Mountain and Phelps's 
Deer-Pasture, we arrive at the head of the lake, where 
stands the village of Caldwell, which is 36 miles from our 
starting point ; and the assertion is ventured, that no passage 
of an equal distance can furnish so rich and diversifying a 
prospect. The lake is interspersed with a great number of 
small islands ; and its smooth, clear, green surface is striking- 
ly contrasted with the high and rugged shores which enclose 
it. The finest of fishing is to be found in this lake. 

The village of Caldwell contains about 300 inhabitants, 
and has a good hotel capable of accommodating 80 persons. 
It has a church, courthouse, and postoffice. Prospect Hill, 
which is near, affords a rich and diversified prospect from 
the summit. It is 27 miles from Saratoga ; and fishing ex- 

* The original name, Horicon, has lately been restored to this lake. 



ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 79 

ctirsions are frequently made from there to Caldwell, wLere 
tackle, boats, &c., are furnished at the hotel. There are 
daily conveyances from Caldwell, passing Glenn's Falls, to 
the Saratoga Springs, from which place railroad cars depart 
for Albany, via Schenectady, several times every day. The 
railroad from Ballston to Troy being in operation, travellers 
may have choice of routes to Albany, via Troy or Schenec- 
tady. Many go by one road and return by the other. 



ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO BALLSTON AND 
SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

Since the completion of the railroads, nearly all travellers 
to Ballston and Saratoga go by way of Schenectady or Troy, 
where they proceed direct to the Springs by way of the Rail- 
road. The Schenectady and Saratoga Railroad is 36 1 miles 
long ; the Rensselaer and Saratoga Road from Troy to Balls- 
ton, 20 miles long. 

On the road to Troy, at the northern extremity of the city, 
is the Mansion House of General Stephen Van Rensselaer,* 
who is possessed of an immense estate (extendmg 10 miles 
along the river, and nearly 20 east and west), and bears the 
old Dutch title of " Patroon of Albany." His liberahty in 
advancing literature, agriculture, and charitable institutions is 
proverbial, as he contributes largely to all. Here the stage 
strikes the Macadamized road, which was finished in 1831, 
between Troy and Albany. It is six miles in length, and 
cost over $90,000. After traveUing five miles upon this de- 
lightful road, you arrive at the United States' Arsenal, 
located in a most eligible situation on the west bank of the 
Hudson. The buildings are constructed of brick and stone. 
From the arsenal to the upper ferry is a continued range of 
houses, divided into three villages, viz., Watervliet, Port 
Schuyler, and West Troy ; but where the lines of distinction 
between these places are drawn it is difficult to tell. There 
are two routes henc© to Waterford ; one leading through 
Troy and Lansingburgh, and the other by the junction of the 
Erie and Northern Canals and the great Cohoes Falls, which 
are worthy of a visit. The traveller can pass over both routes 

* This esteemed citizen died in 1839. 



I 
80 ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 

in going to and returning from the Springs. In pursuing the 
Troy and Lansingburgh route, the stage crosses the Hudson 
in a horseboat from West Troy to the city of Troy. 

The city of Troy is located on the eastern bank of the Hud- 
son ; and the scenery in the vicinity is remarkable for its 
beauty, presenting on all hands the alternation of hill and vale, 
covered with refreshing verdure and the indications of a fertile 
soil. The streets in the city cross at right angles, running east 
and west, and north and south. The buildings are many of 
them elegant, and generally of brick ; and in some streets are 
shaded by trees on each side. Among them are four banks, 
seven churches, a courthouse, jail, and market. The most 
splendid are the Episcopal Church (a beautiful specimen of 
Gothic architecture), the Courthouse, a very fine building ; 
the Merchants' and Mechanics' Bank, and the Farmers' Bank, 
adjoining each other, both built of freestone, are very respect- 
able buildings. The Tro^j Female Seminary, under the su- 
perintendence of Mrs. Willard, occupies a large four-story 
brick building belonging to the corporation. The population 
ot Troy is about 13,000. A canal packet-boat leaves here 
daily at 9 o'clock for Whitehall, and runs through in about 
22 hours. The railroad connecting Troy with Ballston Spa 
is completed. 

Mount Ida is in the rear of Troy. From the summit of 
this hill there is a beautiful view of the river and surrounding 
country. 

The Rensselaer School is one and a half miles north of 
Troy. It is in a flourishing condition, and was established 
under the patronage of General Stephen Van Rensselaer. 

Lansingburgh consists of one long street running parallel 
with the river. It is 3 miles from Troy. It was formerly a 
place of considerable business, but it has now a somewhat 
dilapidated appearance. The far-famed " diamond rock" is 
on a hill in the rear of the village. It has at times a very 
brilliant appearance from the reflected rays of the sun. One 
mile north, a very stanch bridge crosses the river to the vil- 
lage of 

Waterford. This is an important village, located at the 
confluence of the Mohawk and Hudson : the Northern Canal 
communicates with the river at this place, which gives it 
many advantages for trade. It has a population of 1700. 
There is a fine hotel kept at Waterford by Mr. Demarest, and 
another by Mr. f isk 



ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 81 

The route by the junction of the canals and the Cohoes 
Falls from West Troy to Waterford is about the same dis- 
tance as by Troy (4 miles). From West Troy to the junction 
of the Erie and Northern Canals is 2 miles. There are 17 
locks on the canal at this place within the space of three 
fourths of a mile. About a mile farther a bridge crosses the 
Mohawk River, and affords a fine view of the 

CoHOEs Falls, which are about a mile above the bridge. 
The descent of the rapids above the falls is about 30 feet, and 
the perpendicular fall is 40 feet, making a total descent of 70 
feet. 'I'here is a path by which persons approach within a few 
feet of the precipice over which the cataract falls, celebrated 
by the muse of Thomas Moore. It is 1 mile from the Co- 
hoes to Waterford, and 8 miles farther north to 

Mechanicville, generally called by the inhabitants the 
Borough. It contains about 20 dwetlings, a cotton factory, 
and a number of mills. Here the railroad diverges from the 
old route, and runs westerly 12 miles to Ballston. 

Ballston Spa is the resort of hundreds of travellers du- 
ring the summer months. There are a number of mineral 
springs in the vicinity, the waters of which are not unlike 
those of Saratoga. A beautiful creek flows along the east 
end of the village, called the Kayaderosseras, on which a 
mill is situated a short distance from the village. Two of 
the springs are near the late Mr. Aldridge^s Boarding-house ; 
and the United States' Spring is at the east end of the village 
near the Sa7is Souci Hotel. A large bathing-house is located 
near this spring, which is furnished with waters (for the pur- 
poses of bathing) from all the different springs in the vicinity. 
There is in the village a courthouse, two churches, an acad- 
emy, and a female seminary ; also a printing-office and book- 
store, to which a reading-room is attached. This village was 
chartered in 1807, and is directed by three trustees, who are 
chosen annually. Its population is about 800, and it contains 
130 houses. The principal hotels are 

The Sans Souci, owned by a company of gentlemen, is the 
most extensive, and has more company than any other house. 
It is three stories high, 160 feet in length, with two back 
wings of 150 feet, and capable of accommodating over 100 
persons. There is a large garden attached to it. 

Aldridge''s Boarding-house, as it was formerly styled, has 
a more retired location, and receives a good share of patron- 



82 ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 

age. There is an extensive and beautiful garden connected 
with this estabhshment, which is always open to the guests. 

The Village Hotel, kept by Mr. Clark, is a few doors from 
the Sans Souci, and is a very agreeable boarding-house. 

The Mansion House is in the centre of the village. 

There is a Private Boarding-house near the west spring, 
on the flat. Those who wish a retired situation will be pleased 
with this house. 

A regular mail arrives and departs every day. Strangers 
should be particular to have their letters directed " Ballston 
Spa," as there is another postoffice in the town of Ballston. 
At the oflRce of the Gazette a reading-room is open for stran- 
gers on moderate terms. 

Ballston Lake is 6 miles from the village, and a ride to 
its banks affords a very pleasant excursion. It is 5 miles long 
and 1 in width. Hunting and fishing abound on the borders 
and in the waters of this lake. If boats and other conveni- 
ences were provided for the accommodation of visiters, it 
would be a place of great resort, but at present very few think 
of going there. The usual drive is to Riley's, at Saratoga 
Lake. Ballston was formerly the most fashionable place of 
resort, but latterly Saratoga has borne away the palm. Not 
till newer and more convenient public houses are erected at 
this place will visiters give it their support. The public well, 
as it is called, was the gift of Sir William Johnson. Within 
the last year it has been repaired by the public authorities. 

Saratoga Springs are situated 7 miles from Ballston Spa, 
in a northeasterly direction. The celebrity of these springs, 
not only for their medicinal qualities, but as a fashionable re- 
sort during the summer months, renders any minuteness of de- 
tail unnecessary, were it not incompatible with the objects and 
dimensions of this work. The springs are numerous ; and 
among the most celebrated are the Congress, Hamilton, High- 
Rock, Columbian, Washington, President, and Flat-Rock. 
They lie east of the village, on the borders of a Valley. The 
Congress spring is the most important, and has the best ac- 
commodations for visiters. The High-Rock spring, so called 
from its being enclosed in a rock of a conical shape, five feet 
in height, over the sides of which it formerly flowed, is nearly 
half a mile from the Congress spring. The water in the for- 
mer now rises only to within two feet of the summit of the rock, 
and from this circumstance it is conjectured, probably with 



ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 83 

correctness, that it has found an outlet beneath its base. 
Commodious bathing-houses are estabUshed at the Washing- 
ton, Hamilton, and Monroe springs. A library and a suite of 
reading-rooms are connected with a bookstore in the village. 
They are conveniently arranged, and well furnished v^rith peri- 
odicals, newspapers, maps, &c. A mineralogical collection 
is also attached to this establishment, containing a variety of 
specimens, both European and American, and all those dis- 
covered in the neighbourhood. A book is also kept here, in 
which the names of visiters to the springs are registered. The 
public houses here are conducted on an extensive scale, and 
equal, in elegance and the accommodations afforded the trav- 
eller, to the hotels of our largest cities. Congress Hall is 
located in the near vicinity of the Congress spring. Its di- 
mensions are large, its situation eligible, and a shaded avenue 
communicates with the spring ; and it can accommodate about 
200 persons. The United States'' Hotel is situated in the centre 
of the village, and, being four stories in height, has a very im- 
posing appearance. It has been recently enlarged and im- 
proved by the proprietors, and is now first on the list for the 
extent and elegance of its accommodations. The ambitioa 
of the new proprietors is to take the lead, and there is no doubt 
they will do so. Mr. Thomas, the gentlemanly and intelligent 
proprietor of the American Hotel in Albany, is a lessee of the 
United States for the coming season. A large sum of money 
has been laid out in the enlargement and embellishment of the 
house. There are 16 private parlours, with bedrooms attached, 
looking out upon a beautiful garden ; and the drawing-room, 
as well as each private parlour, has been refitted with new and 
elegant furniture. Bbncard, the celebrgited cook, is re-en- 
gaged to superintend the batterie de cuisine ; and, now that the 
railroad depot is a little farther off, the United States will be- 
come the most agreeable, as it is the largest hotel at the Spa. 
This establishment is partly surrounded by grounds laid out 
in a tasteful manner, and shaded by flourishmg trees. It is a 
splendid house, and admirably kept. The Pavilioji is next in 
importance. It is built of wood, and ornamented with colon- 
nades in front of very chaste architecture. It is near the Flat- 
Rock spring, is conveniently arranged, and can accommodate 
nearly 150 visiters. A^'hen this house is well kept it is well 
filled. It is expected that Mr. Carr will be the lessee the 
present year ; and if so, the house will recover from last year's 



84 ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 

discredit. The Union Hall is also an extensive and commo- 
dious hotel. It is situated opposite Congress Hall, is tliree 
stories high, and has a spacious piazza in front, supported by 
ten lofty pillars. The grounds connected with this house are 
laid out with taste. Its internal arrangements are convenient, 
and its landlord, Mr. W. Putnam, thoroughly understands the 
art of making his guests comfortable. The Columbian Hotel, 
situated near the Pavilion, in the midst of gardens, is also a 
good house. In a more retired position are Washington Hall 
and Hishland Hall, pleasantly situated at the north part of the 
village, where the invalid, and those who do not mingle with 
the gay throng who pursue pleasure instead of health, may be 
accommodated in the best style. Amusement is always to be 
found during a sojourn here. Besides that which arises from 
the contemplation of the various shades of character with 
which the crowded scene is enlivened, the library, the reading- 
rooms, the billiard-rooms, and dancing, which seems to pre- 
vail among the fashionable invalids, afford all the opportunities 
for killing time which could be desired. There are also ponds 
in the vicinity, and trout-brooks a few miles north, where the 
angler may enjoy himself to his heart's content. Excursions 
are almost hourly made to the Lake House, beautifully situa- 
ted on Saratoga Lake, where good boats are in constant read- 
iness for visiters, and game dinners for the gourmand. There 
are many pleasant drives about Saratoga, which the tourist 
soon discovers. One of the most delightful, however, not so 
generally known, is to Hadley Falls, about 14 miles north of the 
Spa, over a good road and through a highly romantic country. 
Excellent fishing may be enjoyed here, and the falls them- 
selves are highly picturesque and beautiful. Proceeding on- 
ward to the junction of the Sacandaga and Hudson, other beau- 
tiful scenery repays the trouble of the excursion, and a dinner 
of brook-trout is always ready at Rockwell's clean and neat 
little inn in the neighbouring village. The Saratoga waters 
are sent all over the world. The analysis of a quart of water 
from the Congress spring is as follows : 



Muriate of soda . . • . 


. 103 grains. 


Carbonate of lime 


. 27^ " 


« magnesia . 


. 17 " 


Muriate of lime . 


. 34 « 


" magnesia 


. . 41 « 



ROUTE FROM ALBANY TO THE SPRINGS. 85 

Oxyde of iron . . . . ^ grain. 
Carbonic acid gas . . .66 cubic inches. 

Azotic gas . . . . 2 *' " 

The effect of the Congress water is cathartic ; that of the Flat 
Rock, and the new and excellent Putnam spring, tonic. The 
Ten Springs, a short distance northeast, where there is a fine 
boarding-house, are also in high repute. Invalids should never 
drink these waters without first taking medical advice. 

Upon the whole, the Springs must always be the resort of 
the American travelling public. Fine air, the sparkling waters, 
the healthful situation, agreeable company, the constant suc- 
cession of balls, concerts, dinners, and drives, give relief to 
the overworked minds of men of business, and till up the va- 
cuity of those of mere men of pleasure. 

The most delightful and lasting intimacies are often formed, 
advantageous acquaintances made, and much information ex- 
changed in relation to the various portions of the Union, through 
the medium of the distinguished men who assemble here in 
search of health and amusement. 

The excellent arrangements of the railroads, the politeness 
of the agent, and the facilities for arrival and departure, make 
the trip to the Springs easy and agreeable. Every year in- 
creases the number of visiters, and the day is not iar distant 
when the present accommodations at Saratoga will be of ne- 
cessity doubled to accommodate the immense numbers who 
will continue to make it their place of annual resort. 
H 



86 ALBANY TO BUFFALO. 



STAGE ROUTE. 



ALBANY TO BUFFALO. 

Leaving Albany, the direct mode of proceeding is by rail- 
road to Schenectady ; thence by the Utica and Schenectady 
railroad to Utica, which takes between 5 and 6 hours. (See 
railroads.) The first village is 

Amsterdam, 16 miles west of Schenectady. This is a 
growing village, comprising now more than 100 houses, a 
church, &c. A creek of some size passes through the village, 
and at a distance of about half a mile there are several beautiful 
falls. One mile farther is seen a stone house of singular con- 
struction, though lately modernized, which was formerly the 
residence of Guy Johnson, Esq. ; and a little beyond it, on 
the opposite side of the road, that of Sir John, son of the cele- 
brated Sir William Johnson. Four m-les farther is Tripes, or 

Tribes Hill, on the summit of which is a small village. 
The road passes round the base of this hill. 

Fonda, 25 miles from Schenectady, is the new seat of jus- 
ixe for the county of Montgomery, and one of the speculations 
of 1836. As yet, its proprietors have not reahzed their expec- 
tations. 

St. Johnsville is a small village 18 miles from the last 
place. Here passengers generallytake lunch. 

Little Falls, already described, is 11 miles from the last- 
mentioned place. 

" The Little Falls," says Mr. Clinton, in his introductory 
discourse, " exhibit an interesting aspect. The rocks are 
composed of granite, and many of them are 30 or 40 feet thick, 
piled on each other like Ossa on Pelion, and indicating a vio- 
lent rupture of the waters at this place." We have already re- 
marked some peculiarities of this place at page 40. 

Herkimer is 8 miles west of Little Falls. There are 
here about 150 houses and 1000 inhabitants. A convention 
of delegates from the several counties meets here every two 



ALBANY TO BUFFALO. 87 

years, and nominates a candidate for the gubernatorial chair 
of the state. A new courthouse has recently been erected, 
the former one having been destroyed by fire. 

Frankfort, quite a flourishing little village, is 6 miles 
above, on the opposite side of the river ; and 9 miles JFarther 
takes you to the city of 

Utica, 22 miles from Little Falls. The following account 
is extracted from a Utica newspaper of April, 1835 : — 

" Utica has a population of more than 10,000, a city 
charter, a well-organized corporation, a superior fire-depart- 
ment, and a host of public officers. An important central 
postoffice, with sixteen lines of stages and ten daily mails — 
three lines of central packets. Three banks, eight ensurance 
agencies, fourteen churches, twenty-five religious and charita- 
ble societies, seven literary, scientific, and musical societies, 
and three libraries. One academy, two public schools, a 
gymnasium, a commercial lyceum, and two superior female 
schools, with a great variety of others. We have one term 
each of the United States District Court, the Supreme Court 
of New- York, and the Circuit Court. Four terms of the 
Vice-chancellor's Court, and twelve of the Surrogate's. The 
offices of Clerk of the Northern District, Clerk in the Su- 
preme Court, Clerk in Chancery, and County Clerk, are located 
here. Also of the Vice-chancellor of the fifth circuit, and 
First Judge of the county of Oneida. Most of the ecclesi- 
astical institutions of Central New- York hold their annual, 
or some of their quarterly meetings here. We have two 
reading-rooms, a museum, a public garden, and baths. There 
are published weekly three political, two religious, and one 
miscellaneous papers ; and monthly, a literary magazine. 
We have two extensive flouring-mills, and a great number of 
manufactories. The annual manufacture of coopers' ware is 
$21,000; of millstones, $20,000; of building stone, S20,000 ; 
and of many others in proportion. In the county, the amount 
of cotton annually consumed in the manufactories is 1,863,000 
pounds ; of wool, about 300,000 pounds ; and of rags, 50 
tons ; but it is useless to enumerate. Our resources are 
great." There is not a place in this state where the expenses 
of living are so moderate in all respects as Utica. The con- 
struction of the railroad has been of vast service to the town, 
and has restored the value of property in a portion of the 



88 ALBANY TO BUFFALO. 

city which, by the location of the canal, had been almost de- 
stroyed. 

The distance between Schenectady and Utica has been 
travelled on this road in 3 hours 21 minutes. On the Ist of 
August, 1836, a party of gentlemen from Albany went from 
that city to Utica and back, 190 miles, in 12 hours ! 

For farther account of Utica and Trenton Falls, see pages 
41,42. "^^ 

New-Hartford is 4 miles from Utica ; and 13 miles far- 
ther the village of 

Vernon, which contains several mills and a glass manu- 
factory. Five miles beyond this is the old 

Oneida Castle. Formerly there was a settlement of 
Oneida and Tuscarora Indians at this place ; but the march of 
civilization has lately driven the little remnant of these once 
powerful tribes to a new habitation in the far west. Many of 
these Indians were volunteers to the state during the war. 

Lenox is three miles farther ; in reaching which, the road 
runs within a mile of 

Canistota, which is a beautiful village on the Erie Canal. 

Quality Hill is 3 miles from Lenox ; and 5 miles beyond 
it is the village of 

Chittenango. This place is quite celebrated for its man- 
ufactures of cotton, &c. Gypsum is found here in great 
abundance, as well as petrifactions and organic remains. The 
canal is one mile and a half distant ; and a feeder from the 
village gives great facilities for sending their produce and 
manufuctures to market. 

A road passes from here direct to Syracuse, for wfiich see 
canal route ; but we here follow the road to 

Manlius. Before reaching Manlius the road crosses a hill, 
from which a delightfully picturesque scene, embracing One- 
ida Lake, Onondaga Lake, and the village on Onondaga Hill, 
is presented. Manlius village comprises about 200 houses, 
4 churches, 2 cotton manufactories, and several mills on 
Limestone Creek. In the near vicinity are some pretty falls 
or cascades. Manlius is 4 miles beyond Chittenango ; and 6 
miles farther is 

Jametville, Near this place is a small lake of singular 
appearance and smell. The shores are bold and cragged, and 
rise abruptly from 100 to 200 feet above the level of the 
water, which has a dark green colour, and sends forth a sul- 



ALBANY TO BUFFALO. 89 

pKurous smell. Four miles from here the stage crosses 
Onondaga Hollow. A beautiful creek flows through the 
centre of the hollow, and forms part of the picture to which 
the grand councils of the Six Nations gave animation, in days 
when they, truly the "lords of the soil," held undisputed 
sovereignty. But these days have passed away, and the little 
remnant of their "blasted race" will soon be swept 

"Down to oblivion dark and deep. 
With none their hopeless wrongs to weep." 

Onondaga Hill is 2 miles onward, and from its summit 
you have a fine view of several pretty villages, as well as 
Onondaga Lake. 8 miles farther is 

Marcellus, a village containing aboutSO houses. It is 
located in the valley of the Otisco, and near it are several un- 
employed, though very eligible water-privileges. Water-lime 
is very abundant. Near the village the trunk of a large tree 
may be seen entirely petrified. 

Skaneateles is 6 miles farther. This village is beauti- 
fully located, and is, without doubt, " take it for all in all," 
one of the most pleasant and pretty places in the state. The 
population is from 1800 to 2000. There are here several 
manufactories and mills, besides many beautiful dwellings. 
Being located at the foot of the pretty little lake from which its 
name is derived, it enjoys a splendid view of the lake and its 
banks, which rise gently one hundred feet or more in the 
course of a mile from the water, presenting a beautiful and 
extended lawn, dotted here and there with pretty white farm- 
houses. The lake abounds with trout and other fish, is 16 
miles long, and varies from | to 2 miles in width. This lake, 
with its verdant banks and cultivated fields, its smiling orchards 
and neat-looking farmhouses, form a landscape which, for 
richness and beauty, is rarely met with. Petrifactions are 
found under the bluffs at the head of the lake. 7 miles far- 
ther and you enter the village of 

Auburn. This place contains about 6000 inhabitants, 6 
churches, courthouse, museum, theological seminary, bank, 
and the state prison, which cost about $300,000. Several 
new cells have been lately added to the prison. It is well 
worth while to visit this establishment, and witness the ex- 
cellent discipline of the concern, and the convicts engaged at 
their different trades. The prison contained 649 convicts, 
H3 



90 ALBANY TO BUFFALO, 

Oct. 1st, 1S34; and the profits for the year preceding were 
about $)5000 over all contingent expenses. A great Hydraulic 
Company is established here to bring the waters of the Owasco 
Lake by a canal to the village. A fine railroad is now in op- 
eration between Syracuse and Auburn. (See Railroads.) 

Wekdsport, on the canal, is 7 miles distant, and stages 
run to and from there daily. Goods destined for Auburn are 
landed at Weedsport. 

Cayuga is 7 miles west of Auburn, and here you cros.s 
Cayuga Lake by means of a bridge one mile and eight rods 
long. The lake is 38 miles long and from one to two miles 
wide. The steamboat to Ithaca leaves the bridge daily at 
1 o'clock. Four miles west of here is the village of 

Seneca Falls, which is located on the bank of the Seneca 
River. The falls at this place have a descent of 46 feet, and 
afford fine facilities for manufactories, mills, &c., several of 
which are already in the full tide of successful operation. A 
side canal from here to Lakeport, on the Erie Canal, twenty 
miles distant, in connexion with the river, gives a water com- 
munication from Geneva to the western lakes and the ocean. 

Waterloo is 4 miles farther. This village only began its 
existence in 1816. It is located on the outlet of Seneca 
Lake, which here propels several mills, and renders the place 
rather an unpleasant rival of Seneca Falls, Travelling 7 miles 
farther you reach the village of 

Geneva. This village is delightfully located on the west- 
em margin of Seneca Lake ; and the banks being high, it af- 
fords an extended view of the lake and adjacent country. 
The handsome dwellings in the village, with their charming 
hanging gardens on the margin of the lake — the splendid 
country-seats and cultivated farms — and the fine roads, or a 
trip in the steamer Geneva — each and all conspire to render a 
short stay here anything but disagreeable. The population is 
about 4000. Besides the other public institutions, a Medical 
College has been established here, in connexion with the ex- 
isting Literary Institutions. Some eminent men are connected 
with it. 

The lake is 35 miles long by 3 to 4 in width, and it never 
freezes. Two steamboats ply daily to and from Jeffersonville, 
at the head of the lake. A lateral canal is cut from here to 
the Erie Canal. 

Canandaigua is 15 miles farther, and, being located on el- 



ALBANY TO BUFFALO. 91 

©Vated ground, it commands a fine view of the lake from which 
it takes name. The inhabitants here are generally wealthy, 
and have displayed much taste in the construction of theur 
dwelhngs (many of which are uncommonly beautiful) and the 
arrangement of their gardens. There are here several fine 
public buildings, among which the Episcopal Church will be 
noticed. A steam flouring-mill is in operation here. The 
lake lies south of the village, is 14 miles in length, from 1 to 
2 in width, and has a steamboat running on it. 

From here the road diverges, and travellers have a choice 
of two routes, one via Rochester, 28 miles northwesterly (for 
description see page 55) ; and from there by the Ridge-road 
to Lewiston, 74 miles ; and thence along the bank of the Ni- 
agara River to the falls, 7 miles ; and 23 miles farther to Buf^ 
falo. Total from Canandaigua to Buffalo, 132 miles. Pro- 
ceeding by the direct route, you reach Bloomfield, 9 miles ; 
and 5 miles farther is West Bloomfield, both of which are rich 
agricultural towns, and produce a great abundance of fruit. 

Lima is 4 miles farther, and 12 miles beyond is the village of 

Avon Springs. This place has of late years become quite 
celebrated, by reason of the medicinal qualities of two springs 
near by, which are strongly impregnated with sulphur and 
alum. Avon is the resort of the votary of pleasure, as well 
as of the invalid who seeks health, and was particularly so in 
1834, when many were prevented from visiting Canada, &c., 
in consequence of the prevalence of cholera. The seasons 
have no effect on these springs, the amount of water dis- 
charged being always the same.* 

Caleoonia is 8 miles west of Avon, and passengers gen- 
erally have time, while the stage waits, to visit a curious large 
spring. The discharge from this spring is so great that sev- 
eral mills are propelled by its waters. 

Le Roy is 6 miles farther. Allen's Creek passes through 
the village. The village has a commanding location, contains 

* A celebrated physician, describing these springs, says, "The value 
of these waters has, within the last few years, been justly and highly 
appreciated. They may be ranked among the most powerful remedial 
waters yet made known ; but, like other active medicinal agents of sim- 
ilar character, fhey are liable to great abuse. Possessing active emetic 
and cathartic properties, it is reqiiisite that caution be exercised not to 
indulge too freely at first ; and ihey also demand that, previous to their 
use, the system should, in some cases at least, be first relieved by some 
efficient cathartic." 



92 ALBANY TO BUFFALO 

about 400 buildings, and is in a very thriving condition. 
Much of its prosperity is due to the mills which have been 
erected on the creek. 10 miles beyond this is 

Batavia, the capital of Genesee county. It has a court- 
house, a bank, the Holland Company's office, &c. There are 
here many fine-looking buildings, but all seems dull and 
gloomy. A blockhouse is noticed here, erected to protect 
the papers and titles of the Holland Land Company during an 
excitement got up by the settlers. A M'Adamized road is 
now being made between Buffalo and Williamsville on the 
route from Batavia, where it is much wanted. In bad weather 
the road is almost impassable. Business does not appear to 
be the object of people here. This was the residence of the 
unfortunate William Morgan, who was abducted from his 
home, and confined in the magazine at Fort Niagara by a 
mob, who charged him with revealing the secrets of free- 
masonry. From the fort his fate could never be traced, but 
he is supposed to have been drowned in the Niagara River. 

This matter produced a great excitement throughout the 
state, and founded a political party ca i^d anti-masons. Lit- 
tle is now heard of either masons or antimasons. Tonnewanta 
Creek runs along the north side of the village. Passing 
through several small unimportant places, 40 miles from Ba- 
tavia you arrive at Buffalo. 

Distance from Canandaigua to Buffalo is 90 miles. 



CLEAN AND ALLEGHANY CANAL 

This is one of the most important works in this union, and 
is in rapid progress of completion. Governor Clinton, in four 
successive messages from 1825, urged its importance on the 
Legislature. Its length from Rochester to Glean is 107 
miles. From Pittsburgh to Glean, by the Alleghany, navi- 
gable for steamboats, is 280 miles, and property is now trans- 
ported down the river for $5 a ton. When the canal is done, 
goods will be transported so cheap from New-York to Pitts- 
burgh, as to set competition on the Pennsylvania Canals and 
Railroads at defiance. Immense products of soil and of mine 
will be transported on this canal to Rochester, which will be- 
come the market of a territory as large as the whole state of 
Massachusetts. 



USEFUL INFORMATION FOR TOURISTS. 



Rates of Fare in Hackney-coaches in New-York. 

If the driver and stranger disagree as to distance, the street- 
cominissioner will decide. 

For taking a person any distance not exceeding 
one mile $0 37i 

For taking one person any distance exceeding a 
mile, and within two miles 50 

For every additional passenger 25 

For carrying a passenger to the new almshouse, 
and returning 75 

For every additional passenger, and returning . 37J 

For conveying a passenger around the first or Sandy 
Hill tour 1 00 

For conveying a passenger to Eighty-siith-street, 
and returning' 3 00 

For conveying a passenger around the third or 
Lake's tour 2 50 

For conveying one or more passengers around the 
fourth or Apthrop's tour, with the privilege of detain- 
ing the carriage two hours 3 50 

For conveying one or more passengers to Harlaem, 
and returning, with the privilege of detaining the car- 
riage three hours , 4 00 

For conveying one or more passengers any distance 
not herein mentioned or described, and returning, for 
every mile which they may proceed from the said 
stands respectively 50 

For use of coach per day 5 00 

Children under 14 years of age half price. 

The above is an extract from the Corporation Laws. 



PRINCIPAL HOTELS IN NEW- YORK. 

Location. Keepers^ Names. 

City Hotel No. 113 Broadway Gardner «fc Packer. 

Astor House Broadway Coleman A: Stetsun. 

Atlantic Hotel No. 5 Broadway M'Niel Seymour. 

Mansion House No. 39 Broadway W. J. Bunker. 

Franklin House Broadway Hayes & Treadwell. ' 

American Hotel Broadway W. B. Cozzens. 

Washington Hotel. .Broadway John Cotter. 

Clinton Hotel Beekman-street P. Hodges. 

Howard's Hotel — Broadway,cr. Maiden Lane.D D. Howard. 

United States Hotel. Water, cr. Fulton-street E. R. Yale. 

President Hotel Broadway Redmond & Pennoyer. 

Globe Hotel Broadway F. Hlancard. 

St George Hotel Broadway S. T. Blanchard. 

Waverley House . . . Broadway A. Reed. 

Carlton House Broadway, cr. Leonard-st. • Benson &. Hodges. 

Tremont House .... Broadway Churchill. 



PRINCIPAL HOTELS IN ALBANY. 

Location. Keepers'' J^ames. 

Eagle Tavern South Market-street H- H.Crane. 

American Hotel No. 100 State-street I. Thomas. 

City Hotel North Market-street Chapin & Foster. 

Mansion House North Market-street Wood «k Lathropi 

Congress Hall Park Place Landon. 

^^^'HoteL.^.^'".'"!'!^" ! N«- ^" ^''"'^ Market-street. Whelpley. 

Fort Orange Hotel No. 549 South Market-street. E. Foot. 

Montgomery Hall South Market-street. Chapin. 

Western Hotel State- street Wilcox. 

Franklin House • Opposite the Railroad Dep6t. 



STEAMBOAT AND RAILROAD LINES. 



STEAMBOATS FilOM NEW-YORK TO ALBANY, 

Day line, from the foot of Barclay-street, at 7 o'clock A.M. 
every day. 

Troy* Capt. Gorham. 

Albany " Jenkins, 

Night Line, from the foot of Courtlandt-street, at 5 P.M. 
every day. 

De Witt Clinton Capt. Roe. 

Swallow " M'Lean. 

These day boats generally make the passage in from 10 to 
11 hours, and the night from 8 hrs. 45 min. to 11 and 12 hrs. 
The People^s Line is composed of 

The Rochester Capt. St. John, 

South America " Brainard. 

North America " Truesdell. 

Utica •' Shultz. 

These are all uncommonly fast boats. 
The Diamond, a new boat of peculiar construction, will also 
ply during the season. 

Boats ply between all the intervening towns on the Hud- 
son, and the newspapers give daily information of the prices 
of fare and times of departure. 

CAMDEN AND AMBOY RAILROAD LINE 
For Philadelphia, from Pier No. 1, North River. 

Independence Capt. Forbes. 

Swan " Fish. 

Six o'clock Line. — By steamboats to South Amboy ; from 
thence to Camden, via railroad ; from thence by steamboat, 
and arrive in Philadelphia at 2 P.M. 

NEW-YORK AND PHILADELPHIA RAILROAD LINE, 
direct, via Newark, New-Brunsioick, Princeton, Trenton, 

and Bordentown, through in six hours. 
Leave New-York, from the foot of Liberty-street, daily, at 
9 o'clock A.M., and 4| o'clock P.M. 

* This boat was built in 1840. She performed the passage from New- 
York to Albany last May in 8 h. 10 m, ; the quickest trip on record. 



96 STEAMBOAT AND RAILROAD LINES. 

The morning Line proceeds direct to Bordentown, where 
passengers take the steamboat down the Delaware, arriving in 
Philadelphia at 3 P.M. 

The evening Line proceeds direct to Camden without 
change of cars, arriving at 10 P.M. 

Passengers will procure their tickets at the office, foot of 
Liberty- street, where a commodious steamboat will be in 
readiness, with baggage crates on board. 

Philadelphia baggage crates are conveyed from city to city 
-without being opened by the way. 

Each train is provided with a Ladies' Car, in which are 
apartments and dressing-rooms expressly for their use. 

The afternoon Line from Philadelphia to Baltimore by 
steamboat, via Newcastle and Frenchtown, leaves Philadel- 
phia at 3^ P.M. Passengers going south have merely to 
transfer themselves from one steamboat to the other. 

Returning, the lines leave Philadelphia at 7 o'clock, A.M. 
by steamboat to Bordentown, and 5 P.M. by railroad. 

NEW-YORK AND BOSTON LINE, 

via Providence and Stonington. 

Massachusetts, 700 tons . . . Oapt. Comstock. 

Rhode Island " Thayer. 

Mohegan " 'PIIHOia 

Narragansett " Woolsey. 

Leave Pier No. 1, North River, daily, at 5 o'clock P.M. 
Passengers for Boston by these boats will be immediately 
forwarded from Providence in the railroad cars, which will 
wait their arrival. 

Passengers at Boston, taking the railroad cars from that 
city at 1 o'clock, will reach the depot at Providence in season 
for these boats, at four o'clock P.M., for New-York. 

MAIL LINE NEW ROUTE TO BOSTON, 

ma Norwich and Worcester Railroad, daily (Sundays ex- 
cepted). 

Composed of the following superior steamers : 
New-York, Worcester, 

Charter Oak, Norwich. 

One of which will leave Peck Slip, East River, at 5 o'clock 
P.M., for Norwich. 



STEAMBOAT AND RAILROAD LINES. 97 

The Worcester, Captain Coit, on Mondays, Wednesdays, 
and Fridays. 

The New-York, Captain Roath, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
Saturdays. 

Passengers by this line will take the cars of the Norwich 
and Worcester Railroad Company on iheir arrival at Nor- 
wich, and proceed immediately for Worcester and Boston, 
without change of cars or baggage. 

The steamboat Splendid, Captain Sanford, will be in readi- 
ness at New- London, on the arrival of the New-York, to con- 
•vey passengers to Sag Harbor, every Wednesday, Friday, and 
Sunday morning. 

HARTFORD AND NEW-HAVEN STEAMBOAT AND 

RAILROAD LINE. 

From Peck Slip, East River. 

For Hartford direct, daily, Sundays excepted. — Fare S2. 

The steamboat Cleopatra, Captain Dustan, will leave every 
Monday, Wednesday, and Friday afternoon, at 4 o'clock. 

The steamboat Bunker Hill, Captain Huntington, will leave 
every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday afternoon, at 4 o'clock. 
For New-Haven.— Fare $1 50. 

The new and elegant steamboat Gladiator will leave 
every morning, Sundays excepted, at 6 o'clock. 

Returning, will leave New-Haven at 1 o'clock P.M. 

Railroad cars leave for Hartford immediately on the arrival 
of the Gladiator at New-Haven. 

The steamboat Charter Oak, Captain S. B. Stone, will 
leave every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday afternoon, at 
4 o'clock. 

NORWALK AND BRIDGEPORT LINES, 
From the foot of Market and Catharine streets. 

Croton Capt. Peck. 

Nimrod *' Brooks. 

Leave every day (except Sunday) at 6 A.M., and every 
Saturday a second boat at 2 P.M. 

Boats leave Fulton Market daily for Flushing, Hallefs 
Cove, Throgg's Neck, New-Rochelle, Stamford, Glenn Cove, 
Cold Spring, Huntington, Cow Bay, &c. 



TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



From Albany 

Schenectady Miles. 

Amsterdam ]5 

Caughna'vaga 10 

Palatine Bridge 12 

Little Falls 21 

Herkimer 7 

Utiea 16 

Manchester 9 

Vernon 8 

Oneida 6 

I.enox 7 

Sullivan 5 

Manlius. 6 

Jamesville 5 

Onondaga Hill 7 

Marcellus 8 

Skaneateles 6 

Aublirn 7 

Cayuga Bridge 9 



to Buffalo and Lewiston. 

15 Seneca Falls 3 

30 Waterloo 4 

40 Geneva 7 

52 Canandaigua 16 

rs East Bloomfield 9 

80 West Bloomfield 5 

Lima 4 

Avon (East Village) 5 

Avon Pobtoffice 2 

Caledonia 8 

Le Roy 6 

Batdvia 11 

Pembroke..... 14 

Clarence 8 

Williamsville 8 

buffalo 10 

Niagara Falls 21 

Lewiston 7 



rrom Albany to Rochester and the Falls. 



Canandaigua (as above) 208 

Mendon 16 224 

Pittsford 6 230 

Rochester 8 238 



Clarkson 18 

Oak Orchard 22 

Lewiston 40 

Niagara Falls 7 



From Albany to Rochester, via Cherry Valley. 



Guilderiand 14 

State Bridge 12 26 

Cherry Valley 26 52 

Little Lakes 10 62 

Bridgewater 20 82 

Madison 14 96 

Cazenovia 12 108 

Manlius 12 120 



Syracuse 7 

Elbridge 15 

Weedsport 6 

Montezuma 9 

Lyons 17 

Palmyra 14 

Pitisford 15 

Rochester 8 



181 
185 
192 
208 
217 



231 
233 
241 
247 
258 
272 
280 
288 
298 
319 



256 

278 
318 
325 



127 

142 
148 
157 
174 
188- 
203 
211 



Fr077i Albany, via Lake George, to Whitehall 

: 6 

11 



Troy.... 

Waterford 5 



Saratoga Springs 7 

' ndy Hill 19 



Mechaiiicsville 8 19 i Lake George 13 

'>3 I Whitehall 3 



Bailston Springs. 



14 



Ticonderoga • 
Crown Point 
Westport ... 

Essex 

Burlington . . 



Steamboat Route from Whitehall to Montreal. 

Plattsburgh 15 

Windmill Point 26 

St. John's, Canada 17 



La Prairie. 
Montreal . . 



112 
129 
145 
152 



POPULATION. CANALS. 



99 



Distances on sundry Postroutes. 

From New-York to Buffalo, via Albany and Utica, 445 miles. 
From New- York to Whitehall, 223 miles. 
From Mew-York to Montreal, 375 miles. 



Ti^BLE OF POPULATION. 

Population of the State in 1835, 2,174,517. Increase from 1830, 255,385. 

Population of Villages, State of New- York, 1835. 

Athens 1563 

Auburn 5000 

Batavia 180C 

Black Rock 1600 

Canandaigua 3000 

Catskill 2498 

Cherry Valley 700 

Clyde 750 

Cooperstown 1200 

Geneva 3000 

Herkimer 1500 

Ithaca 5000 

Lewiston 800 



Little Falls 1900 

Lockport 3639 

Newburgh 5000 

NiagaraFalls 856 

Ogdensburgh 2000 

Oswego 4000 

Palmyra 1450 

Plattsburgh 1374 

Poughkeepsie 6281 

Salina 2500 

Syracuse 4105 

Saugerties 1800 



Of Cities. 



New-York 270,089 

Albany 28.109 

Troy 16,959 

Hudson 5.531 

Schenectady 6,272 



Utica.....' 
Buffalo... 
Rochester 
Brooklyn . 



10,183 
16,661 
14,404 
24,529 



CANALS. 



Erie Canal commenced July 4, 1817. Completed October, 1825. 
Champlain Canal commenced October, 1817. Completed November 
24, 1819. 
Oswego Canal commenced 1826. Completed 1828. 
Chenango Canal commenced 1833. Completed 1836. 

Erie Canal, 364 miles long. Western Section, from Montezuma, 158 
miles, has 21 locks, 186 feet fall. Middle Section, to Utica, 96 miles, has 
11 feet rise, 95 fall. Eastern, to Albany, 110 miles, 52 feet rise, 417 fall. 

The Champlain is 64 miles long, 21 locks, 54 feet rise from lake to 
summit level, and 134 feet fall thence to the Hudson. 

Chenango Canal is 97 miles long from Utica to Binghampton ; total 
lockage 1009 feet. 



100 TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



Table of Distances on the Erie Canal. 

Names of FUioei g 

Albany 

Port Schuyler 5 

Washington (Gibbonsville) 6 

West Troy 7 

Junction 9 

Cohoes 10 

Lower Aqueduct 13 

Willow Spring 19 

Upper Aqueduct 26 

Schenectady 30 

Rotterdam 39 

Phillips's Locks 44 

Amsterdam 47 

Schoharie Creek 52 

Smithto wn ( Au riesville) 54 

Caughnawaga (Fultonville) 57 

Big ^ose fi4 

Spraker's Basin 66 

Canajoharie 69 

Fort Plain 72 

Devendorf's Landing 75 

Minden Dam (St. Johns ville) 77 

East Canada Creek 81 

Indian Castle (Nowadaga Creek) 83 

Fink's Ferry 86 

Little Fails 88 

Rankin's Lock (No. 7) 91 

Herkimer, Lower Bridge 95 

Herkimer, Upper Bridge 96 

Fulmer's Creek 97 

Morgan's Landing 98 

Steel's Creek 99 

Frankfort 101 

Furgeson's 107 

Utica 110 

York Mills (Wetmore's) 113 

Whitesborough 114 

Oriskany 117 

Rome 125 

Wood Creek Aqueduct (Fort Bull) 127 

Hawley's Basin 129 

Stony Creek 130 

New-London 132 

Higgins's 136 

Loomis's 138 

Oneida Creek (Durham ville) 141 

Canistota 146 

New-Boston (Canaseraga) 150 



1 


1 


o 


no 


269 


364 


105 


264 


359 


104 


263 


358 


103 


262 


357 


101 


260 


355 


100 


259 


354 


97 


256 


351 


91 


250 


345 


84 


243 


338 


80 


239 


334 


71 


230 


325 


66 


225 


320 


63 


222 


317 


58 


217 


312 


56 


2)5 


310 


53 


212 


307 


46 


205 


300 


44 


203 


298 


41 


200 


296 


38 


197 


292 


35 


194 


289 


33 


192 


287 


2y 


1R8 


283 


27 


186 


281 


24 


183 


278 


22 


181 


276 


19 


178 


273 


15 


174 


269 


14 


173 


2t)8 


13 


172 


267 


12 


171 


266 


11 


170 


265 


9 


168 


263 


3 


162 


257 





159 


254 


3 


156 


251 


4 


155 


260 


7 


152 


247 


15 


144 


239 


17 


142 


237 


19 


140 


235 


20 


139 


234 


22 


137 


232 


26 


133 


228 


28 


131 


226 


3! 


128 


222 


36 


123 


218 


40 


119 


214 



TABLE OF DISTANCES. 101 



Names of Places. S {J ^ '<3 
lull 

Chittenango 153 43 116 211 

Pool's Brook 156 46 113 208 

Kirkville 158 48 111 206 

Little Lake 160 50 109 204 

Manlius (Reels) 162 52 107 202 

Limestone Feeder 163 53 104 201 

OrviJle Feeder 165 55 106 199 

Lodi 170 60 99 194 

Syracuse 171 61 98 193 

Geddes 173 63 96 191 

Beliisle 177 67 92 187 

Nine Mile Creek 178 68 92 186 

Camillus 179 69 90 185 

Canton 184 74 85 180 

Peru 186 76 83 178 

Jordan 190 80 79 174 

Cold Spring 191 81 78 173 

Weedsport 196 86 73 168 

Centreport 197 87 72 167 

Port Byron 199 89 70 165 

Montezuma (Lakeport) 205 95 64 159 

Lockpit 211 101 58 153 

Clyde 216 106 53 148 

Lock Berlin 221 111 48 143 

Lyons 225 115 44 139 

Lockville 231 121 38 133 

Newark 232 122 37 132 

Port Gibson 235 125 34 129 

Palmyra 240 130 29 124 

Macedonville 244 134 25 120 

Wayneport (Banager's Basin) 247 137 22 117 

Perrinton(Lmder's Bridge) 249 139 20 115 

Perrmton Centre (Col. Peters) 251 141 18 113 

Fairport 252 142 17 112 

Fullam's Basin 253 143 16 111 

Bushnell's Basin 256 146 13 108 

Pittsford 259 149 10 105 

Billinghast's Basin 263 153 6 101 

LockNo.3 265 155 4 99 

Rochester 209 159 95 

Brockvvay's 279 169 10 85 

Spencer's Basin 281 171 12 8S 

Adams's Basin 284 174 15 80 

Cooley's Basin 287 177 18 77 

Brockport 289 179 20 75 

Holley 294 184 25 70 

Scio 298 188 29 66 

Albion 304 194 35 60 

Gaines's Basin 306 196 37 58 

Eagle Harbour 307 197 38 57 

LongBridge 309 199 40 55 

I 2 



102 RAILROADS NOW IN USE. 

I 



Names of Places, I 8 -^ 3 

;i P I 1 

Knowlesville 311 201 42 53 

Road Culvert 312 202 43 52 

Medina 315 205 46 49 

Shelby Basin 318 208 49 46 

Middleport 321 211 52 43 

Reynolds's Basin 324 214 55 40 

Gasport 326 216 57 38 

Lockport 333 223 64 31 

Pendlecon 340 230 71 24 

Welch's 342 232 73 23 

H. Brockway's 346 236 77 18 

Tonnewanta 352 242 83 12 

Lower Black Rock 360 250 91 4 

Black Rock 361 251 92 3 

Buffalo 364 254 95 



RAILROADS IN USE. 



Mohawk and Hudson, between Schenectady and Albany 
15 miles long. An expensive, but most unprofitable road, in 
the hands of brokers, and managed by directors of no great 
information or ability. Summit, 335 feet above the Hudson. 
"Width of the track between the rails, 4 feet 9. Inclined 
plane at Schenectady, 31 chains, rise 1 foot in 18. Inclined 
plane at Albany, 47 chains, same rise. A branch leads into 
the city of Albany, on which horse-power is used at a great 
loss. The plane at Schenectady is about to be dispensed 
with. There are numerous departures every day on this road, 
for which see Albany papers. 

Saratoga and Schenectady Railroad, 21i miles long. 
The greatest inclination 16 feet in a mile. The stock is un- 
productive, and sells at very reduced prices. 

Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad, 20| miles long. 
The greatest ascent in any one mile is 25 feet. Stock de- 
preciated, but the road a great convenience to the public. 

Utica and Schenectady Railroad. An admirable route, 
and an admirably managed company. Many of the directors 
are men of fine minds and great experience. The distance 
is exactly 77 miles and 37-100 of a mile. The greatest in- 
clination is but 20 feet in a mile. The scenery is highly in- 
teresting, and the country well settled through which it passes. 



RAILROADS IN USE. 103 

Auburn and Syracuse Railroad. Length 25 miles, and 
Ijow open for travel. 

Ithaca and Owego Railroad, 29 miles long. An ad- 
mirably graded road, and, when entirely finished, will do a 
much heavier business than at present. This road was con- 
structed by a few individuals at great sacrifices of private in- 
terest. This is a branch of the New- York and Erie Rail- 
road. 

ToNNEWANTA Railroad. From Rochester to Batavia, 
28 miles. An e-xcellent road, and well supported. 

LocKPORT AND Lewiston Railroad, a Toad that com- 
menced operations last year, and furnishes great facilities for 
teaching Niagara Falls. 

Mohawk and Hudson Railroad. The cars leave Al- 
bany for Schenectady as follows : At half past 7 o'clock 
A.M., except Sundays ; at half past 8 A.M. for Utica and 
Saratoga ; at half past 2 P.M., except Sundays ; at 5 P.M. 
except Sundays ; at half past 7 P.M. for Utica. Leave 
Schenectady for Albany at half past 4 A.M., at 7 A.M., ex- 
cept Sundays; at 10 A.M., except Sundays; at half past 2 
P.M. ; at 6 P.M. ; at 8 P.M.,except Sundays. 

Utica, Schenectady, and Albany, by railroad. Sun- 
day afternoons omitted. Trains of railroad coaches leave as 
follows : Three daily lines, viz. : From Albany, west, at half 
past 8 A.M., half past 2 P.M., and half past 7 P.M. ; from 
Schenectady, west, at half past 9 A.M., half past 3 P.M., and 
half past 9 P.M. ; from Utica, east, at 9 A.M., half past 3 
P.M., and half past 9 P.M. 

All baggage must be marked and deposited in the baggage- 
wagon by its owner or person having charge thereof. No 
charge for extra baggage, and all baggage positively at the 
risk of the owner. Way passengers will attend personally 
to the disposition of their baggage at Schenectady. 

Saratoga and Schenectady Railroad. ' Cars for Ball- 
ston and Saratoga Springs will leave the Railroad Depot at 
Albany daily at half past 7 o'clock A.M. and at half past 2 
o'clock P.M., except Sundays. Leave Saratoga Springs daily 
at 8 o'clock A.M. and 4 o'clock P.M. 



164 RAILROADS IN USE. 

The afternoon run from Albany will intersect the Utica 
train at Schenectady, and convey western passengers, travel- 
ling north, directly to Saratoga. 

There are daily lines of stages in connexion with the rail- 
road between Saratoga Springs and Lake George, and Sar- 
atoga Springs and Whitehall, via Glenn's Falls, Sandy 
Hill, &c., which intersect all fhe principal stage-routes through 
Vermont and New- Hampshire. 

Passengers travelling north, and desirous of going imme- 
diately through to Whitehall, should take the half past 8 
o'clock run from Albany. 

N.B. Extra stagecoaches will be furnished for parties at 
all hours. 

Troy, Ballston, and Saratoga Railroad. Two daily 
lines by steam-power leave Troy for Ballston and Saratoga 
Springs, and Whitehall, as follows : From Troy at 9 o'clock 
A.M. and 3 o'clock P.M. From Saratoga at 8 o'clock A.M. 
and 4 o'clock P.M. 

Stages and steamboats run half hourly between Troy and 
Albany. 

The cars start from the corner of River and First streets, 
a few steps from the steamboat landing, and take passengers 
at the doors of the principal hotels. 

Freight forwarded with despatch. All baggage positively 
at the risk of the owners. 

Camden and Amboy Railroad. As this work begins its 
route at Philadelphia, a brief description of it may be useful. 

It commences at Camden, opposite Philadelphia, and cross- 
es Cooper's Creek ; it generally follows the east bank of the 
Delaware. Six miles from Camden it crosses Pensaukin 
Creek, and six miles farther crosses Rancocus by a viaduct. 
It runs hence to Burlington, in almost a straight line, 6 miles ; 
and from thence to Bordentown, 10 miles farther. The gen- 
eral direction of the road from this last place to South Amboy 
is nearly northeast. It then passes Crosswick's Creek, 2^ 
miles distant f enters Centreville, 7 miles distant ; thence 
proceeds to Hightstown, 4 miles ; thence almost in a direct 
course to Spotswood, 11 miles. It recrosses the turnpike 1 
mile distant, and passes Herbertsville 2 miles from Spots- 
wood. It terminates at the wharf, South Amboy, 7 miles 
farther. 



CONCLUSION. 



The immense improvements which have been made in 
the " science of travelling" within a few years past have oc- 
casioned remarkable changes in the travellers themselves. 
Nothing tends more decidedly to the advancement of our so- 
cial condition than the facility of locomotion afforded by the 
application of steam. Men of different degrees of wealth, of 
station, and of information, are now constantly brought to- 
gether on certain terms of equality, where each is unavoid- 
ably placed in relation to others, of amity, forbearance, and 
mutual dependance. The mere superiority of wealth in a 
railroad car or steamboat is of no avail for the time being, and 
reciprocal kindness becomes as necessary as it is unavoidable. 
Persons are here thrown together who otherwise might never 
meet ; and while points of difference are rubbed off in the 
crowd, much of good, much that is worthy of imitation, is soon 
observed and speedily adopted. 

Good humour, and a due respect for the feelings and com- 
fort of those with whom we are travelling, are the best com- 
panions we can take with us if we wish to make pleasant or 
useful excursions- 

SCENERY OF NEW-YORK. 

The path of the tourist presents but little novelty if he fol- 
lows the beaten track. To those who have time and the spirit 
of adventure, much yet remains to be seen, and certainly 

" Much remains unsung." 

A slight allusion to some of these places thus overlooked or 
unknown may not be uninteresting. 

Near New-York there are many beautiful and picturesque 
drives, where inland views and ocean scenery are combined. 
At Bath, in the neighbourhood of Rockaway, and farther 
down Long Island, there are many sweet spots which the 
fcourist rarely visits, and where the very perfection of fishing 
and fowling may be found in their season. 



106 CONCLUSION. 

Ascending the river, in the neighbourhood of Peekskill, and 
back of and opposite to West Point, there is much to be seen ; 
so also in the neighbourhood of Newburgh and the mountains 
opposite. At Saugerties, the Clove road in the Catskills ; and 
at Albany, Kidd's Cave and Stone Ridge, a lovely point of 
view a few miles below the city ; the falls of Tivoli, the Falls 
at Greenbush, and the old Harrowgate Spring, once so much 
resorted to. In the latter city, the new mineral spring in 
Ferry-street, a most valuable medicinal water ; the drive to 
Sand Lake, where abundance of perch may be taken, and 
the Helderburgh range of hills, containing some very extensive 
and celebrated caves, are generally overlooked. In North 
Pearl-street, Albany, the old house in which Lafayette had his 
headquarters, and which he recognised in his late visit by the 
ancient and peculiar brass knocker on the door, may still be 
seen. 

Farther north, the Cohoes, the " Neptunian Staircase" of 
locks in the Erie Canal, the falls back of Troy, the Diamond 
Rock near Lansingburgh, the lishing-ground in the Hudson 
River just below Mechanicville, where the largest rock-bass are 
taken, and the islands in the vicinity abounding with wood- 
cock, invite the tourist and the sportsman. 

In the neighbourhood of Saratoga and the battle grounds, the 
trout-brooks a few miles N. W. ; Hadley's Falls, the Sacan- 
daga, and a world of wild variety there. The new county of 
Hamilton, now recently organized, and about to become known 
to the tourist by its new avenues of land and water commu- 
nication, is a perfect fairy land yet to be enjoyed by the ad- 
venturous. Following the Sacandaga from the Fishhouse, a 
favourite haunt of Sir William Johnson and his Enghsh 
friends in former days, you enter a most romantic country. 

The Americans go in crowds to explore the wilds of Scot- 
land and the Swiss mountains, without ever bestowing a 
thought on the beauties of their own country. In the country 
alluded to, with slight exceptions, the character of the soil and 
climate has been misrepresented. It contains a vast quantity 
of excellent land, fine timber, and chains of lake and mountain 
scenery unsurpassed in any country of the Old World. Some 
gentlemen, who are in the habit of resorting there to catch 
trout and chase the deer, speak in the most rapturous terms of 
their excursions. The time is not far distant when the es- 
tablishment of good roads through the interior and of good inus 



CONCLUSION. 107 

on Lakes Pesheko and Pleasant, will induce thousands to 
spend their summers in this delightful and romantic region, 
who now travel from one end of the state to the other, and cry 
*' all is barren." 

An exploring expedition, recently made still farther north, 
in Essex county, of which an interesting account is contained 
in the January number of Silliman's Journal, 1838, has fur- 
nished the most astounding information in relation to the char- 
acter of that part of the state. Ranges of mountains have 
been discovered among the sources of the Hudson of unex- 
pected elevation. The High Pass, at the source of the main 
branch of the Hudson, and a fork of the Au Sable, was found 
to be 4344 feet above the level of the river at Albany, and 
the High Peak, in that vicinity, 5467 feet ! 

The natural Ice Cave is another curiosity of Essex county ; 
and St. Lawrence and Jefferson counties also abound with 
varieties of strange and impressive scenery. 

In the neighbourhood of Rome, in Oneida county, are the 
ruins of Fort Schuyler, afterward Fort Stanwix. 

Oneida Lake. The shores of Cayuga Lake are well worthy 
of examination. Extensive beds of gypsum and limestone 
there meet the eye of the geologist. Immense quantities of 
salmon-trout are caught here in almost fathomless waters. 
Many pretty villages exist along the banks of the lake. Union 
Village, 8 miles from the bridge, contains two remarkable 
springs, that are supposed to communicate with Owasco Lake, 
and propel extensive machinery. The falls about Ithaca have 
already been described. Cross the railroad to Owego, and the 
beautiful Susquehanna presents itself for exploration, and a 
whole range of country through to Lake Erie offers the great- 
est attractions. 

The Valley of the Genesee is also worthy of a visit ; and 
that of the Alleghany, now about to be united by a canal, thus 
connecting Rochester with New-Orleans ! 

In the neighbourhood of Niagara, very few persons visit the 
Welland Canal, or the picturesque and beautiful cottage of 
Sir Peregrine Maitland, erected by him when lieutenant-gov- 
ernor of the province, at an expense of $60,000. 

Fort Niagara is hterally classical ground to the American, 
and connecting it with its eventful history from its establish- 
ment by the French, its capture by Sir William Johnson, and 
the numerous casualties it has experienced, and, in all human 



108 CONCLUSION. 

probability, will again experience, it becomes one of the most 
striking and agreeable features of the western frontier. 

We have thus slightly alluded to a fev>', and very few of 
those places which personal observation and authentic infor- 
mation enable us to point out as worthy of the attention of our 
readers. Should we have induced any of them to take them 
in their way at the present or any future time, we shall be 
sufficiently rewarded for having introduced the subject by 
way of a 



riifis. 



mmm^^m^m: 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 108 005 2 



